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Showing posts with label Germany. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Germany. Show all posts

Saturday, November 17, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - It's Over (Links To All Posts)

That's it. The trip has been over for quite some time now. All of the photos have been posted, and some of the stories have been written down here. Below are links to all Big Trip blog entries and photos from the journey. If you're planning a trip to any of these countries, I hope my blog will help you. If you have any questions about accommodation in any of these locations, please leave a comment and I will get back to you. It's just a bit to much to do an entry on all the wonderful and mediocre places we stayed. I will say that our most uncomfortable nights were in 1-star and a 4-star hotels (three nights in the former, one night in the latter) while the 2-star and 3-star joints were fantastic, almost without exception.

That's it for the Big Trip. 98 links below.

Planning
The Big Trip
Singapore Locked In
Queensland Locked In
(Then Dana told me it would be overkill to write before the trip even started.)

Queensland, Australia
We Found Internet Access
Writing in Cape Tribulation
Mt Sorrow
*Cape Tribulation photos
Poolside Extravaganza
The Great Barrier Reef
*Great Barrier Reef photos
Wild Queensland
Found: Previously Unblogged Photos from Queensland
*Queensland photos

Sydney Airport
Aiport photos

Singapore
We Sail Tonight For Singapore
*Singapore photos
Whatever?

Italy
Rest in Tuscany
La Guerra a Firenze (The War in Florence)
Roma
*Rome photos
Posting from Florence
Sleeper
Cortona
*Cortona photos
Siena
*Siena photos
Assisi
*Assisi photos
Montepulciano
*Montepulciano photos
Firenze!!! (Florence.)
*Florence photos
The Villa in Cortona
*Villa photos

France
Nice Post
The Greatest Toilet in the World
Yes, It's Nice
*Nice photos
Monaco & Monte Carlo
*Monaco & Monte Carlo photos
Avignon - Dance!
*Avignon photos
Bridges & Cheese
*Roquefort photos
A Stop in Orange
*Orange photos
Lyon, Lyons, Lions
*Lyons photos
Lyons at Night
*Lyons at Night photos
Lunch in Annecy
*Annecy photos

Switzerland
Greetings from Switzerland
Montreux & Château de Chillon
*Montreux photos
I'm Going to Beat You With a Pig Bladder!
*Interlaken photos

Germany
Getting Slap Happy
German Sing-A-Long
A Week and a Half Left
My Last Night as a 20-Something
My Special Day
Deine Karte Bitte Nehmen!
Bier Hall in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
*Garmisch-Partenkirchen photos
Videos from Gasthof Fraundorfer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Munich/München
*Munich/München photos
Bamberg, Germany
*Bamberg photos
Stop at the Würzburg Hospital/Winery
*Würzburg photos
Koblenz - Bikes, Castles & Fickle Weather
*Koblenz photos
Saddle Up, Boys, It's Time for Düsseldorf!
*Düsseldorf photos
Farewell Germany, Heading to Belgium!
*Aachen photos

Belgium
Bye Bye Holiday
In Leuven with Jan & Maxine
*Leuven photos
Big Time in Brussels
*Brussels photos
Brussels Grote Markt/Grand Place
*Grote Markt photos
In Bruges/In Brugge
*Brugge photos
Antwerpen
*Antwerpen photos
The Big Trip Ends

Appendices
The Big Trip Ends (OG style)
Big Trip Photos Mapped
Pigeons Rule the World
*Pigeons Ruling the World photos
Faces in Stone (an other matter)
*Faces in Stone photos
The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Friday, November 16, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Australia
The food in the tropics of Queensland surprised us. This was the one destination where I did not expect to find fantastic meals and drink - and there it was, right in front of me! The dishes we enjoyed in Cape Tribulation were mostly "New Australian" takes on traditional Australian fare, like barramundi. The wine lists were solid, but the beer was lacking outside of Cairns, where we found a better than average hole in the wall at which to avoid returning to our hostel. Similarly, the food we ate at the Great Barrier Reef on the live aboard scuba dive boat operated by Prodive was also wonderful. I did try to tackle the cassowary to taste, but no luck.

Singapore
Singapore was a culinary destination for us, even before reading Calvin Trillin's article "Three Chopsticks" in the most recent food issue of The New Yorker. We quickly learned that plenty of good, inexpensive food can be found in markets, like shopping malls. Dana and I tried everything we could, but we left with dozens of intriguing menu options untasted. Some day we will get back to eat as much as humanly possible.

Italy
I don't usually seek out Italian food and, honestly, I think the cuisine is too heavily relied upon by those nervous to branch out. The freshness and simplicity of the food we ate in Italy was astounding. I could not get enough. I've never eaten so much pasta in my life! Well, since college, at least. We learned a lot of the essentials in Assisi during a cooking class. From our eating experiences in Italy, the two ingredients I will remember most will be the truffles I ate throughout the peninsula and the chicken neck I ate in Florence. Most Italian restaurants won't risk their reputation by serving a bad house wine, so the appropriate liquid accompaniment to these fantastic plates were both tasty and inexpensive... €5 for a liter at one restaurant in Rome. Of course, we had even better wines in Montepulciano.

France
Of course France is known for its culinary delights, and we sought out one of my favorite cheeses, made in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Lyons had plenty to offer, including the famous Le Sud, but our best meal in the country was lunch on our last day, in Annecy. Here we dined on the traditional alpine meal of raclette cheese melted over bread, potatoes and other equally healthy foodstuffs.
"What about the wine?"
Oh yes, the wine was great, but we didn't venture into too many wine regions and did not get to do any tasting. I can say that the French wine was much better than the French beer.

Switzerland
Switzerland offered some very good food, but it was by far the worst value during our trip. The Swiss franc had about the same exchange rate as the Australian dollar, but the costs were much higher. What's more, when we ordered a bottle of wine, it was 500ml instead of the usual 750ml. The travel books and Web sites mentioned Switzerland's secret: fantastic wine that was not exported. The impression was that these wines are SO GOOD that the Swiss don't want to share it with the rest of the world. Well, we tried a few, and they can keep it. The vineyards do make for beautiful scenery.

Germany
These Germans are great eaters and great drinkers! Large portions of flavorful meals served with expectedly good beer or unexpectedly good wine. Sure, I knew they make some great riesling and gewurztraminer, but the range was broader than that. Würzburg surprised us with their winery/hospital. With beer specialties such as altbier and rauchbier, Düsseldorf from and Bamberg, respectively, and impressive bier halls across the land, it's a true beer destination. Dana and I were even a bit overwhelmed early on, and we picked up sushi for lunch in München. Heresy!

Belgium
But we saved the best for last, didn't we? There's not much I can add on the quality of Belgian beer that I have not already posted, but I will reemphasize the quality of the food, in terms of taste, presentation and service. I can think of no other place where people genuinely seem to care so much about your culinary experience. Not because they want to impress you, but because they want you enjoy your meal. Then again, I guess they really have to do that if they're going to serve you horse.

Monday, October 29, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Getting Around

We made our roundabout way from Sydney to New York on a combinations of planes, trains, boats and cars. Frequent flier miles covered a fair bit of it. Multiple treks between New York & Sydney had its perks!

Queensland, Australia
We flew from Sydney to Cairns on Jetstar. Since it was a domestic flight on a budget airline, the baggage limit was 20kg (44lbs) per person. We had packed our luggage based on international travel, since we were, after all, flying back to New York. We packed those bags to the max, full of clothes to last us for 50 days of traveling in a wide variety of climates, plus the stuff we forgot to ship back to the States. According to Jetstar policy, we were fined for each kilogram extra, which amounted to roughly the cost of two Qantas flights to Singapore. Slight exaggeration, but whatever we saved was canceled out. Oh well. We were still in a daze from our fun-filled farewells, so we hardly noticed the absence of entertainment, food and leg space. When Dana and I were confronted with the huge fine from Jetstar at 6AM the day we were leaving Sydney, still reeling from saying farewell to dozens of great friends, we reminded ourselves that there would likely be many more instances of unexpected charges, and we would have to roll with it. Thankfully, it started and ended with Jetstar.

The car we used in Cairns was obtained on miles from Velocity, accumulated by Dana's numerous Virgin Blue flights to Melbourne. There were not many hidden fees for the Europcar we picked up at the airport in Cairns, and it was a piece of cake. That little white car fared better than I did in the Queensland rain forest.

Sydney
There was a scheduled layover in Sydney during our flight from Cairns to Singapore: 7 hours. But that was OK, because we booked the flight on Qantas with miles. Unfortunately, the flight was delayed 3 hours, and we were not allowed to leave the airport for security reasons. Sydney Airport has shockingly little to do and very few places to eat. Dana and I passed the time watching movies on the iBook and reading. I also squeezed a meal voucher from Qantas, which we used to purchase a salad and a bottle of wine. For about ten hours, we sat in that airport cafe and watched the sun and clouds play above the beautiful city that we were leaving. Blades of Glory was showing on the flight, so that was funny.

Singapore
Qantas was decent, as usual, but we were really looking forward to the flight from Singapore to Rome: Emirates. I had booked the flight through Expedia, and we actually had to pay for it, so we couldn't wait to experience this airline that everyone said was so good. It Sucked. That wasn't a typo, it sucked with a capital S. The seats were tiny, the food was absurdly small, and the mediocre films being shown were worse than they would have been on a Qantas flight. And the flight attendants were rude. Worse than the in-flight experience was the pre-flight experience. Due to our delay on arriving in Singapore, we did not get to our hotel until 2AM. Our Emirates flight was set to depart the following morning at 3AM. The visit was an enjoyable whirlwind, like riding on Space Mountain for 24 hours, but getting back to the airport was like getting back in line for another ride when you really have to vomit. Security screening led us into a tiny waiting room about half the size of the plane. As we sat, drained from the hectic stopover, we were forced to watch Ellen Degeneres dance in a raincoat to a Justin Timberlake song as a bunch of uncoordinated audience members danced along, wearing much cheaper raincoats. Plastic garbage bags, really. The flight was delayed, but they didn't announce that until 4AM, after I had confronted the service desk. We were freed to urinate before being cattle-prodded back into the holding pen.

Dubai
The layover in Dubai was a feast for the senses. We landed at about 6AM local time. A shuttle bus picked us up at the plane and drove us past the airport expansion to our arrival gate. It took about 25 minutes. Someday soon, this will be the biggest and busiest airport in the world... or is it already? It seemed to be, with the massive shopping centers built into this timeless alcove. At 6:45AM Dubai time I was being offered samples of liquor. Instead I bought the most expensive face lotion I have ever purchased. I still have plenty left. I'm savoring it.

Italy
Our first European train experience was in Italy. I understand why they fired Mussolini, but do they keep the trains running poorly just to spite his ghost? I mean, they hung him upside-down and skinned him, isn't that enough? Do they need to make innocent American tourists suffer? Perhaps. Perhaps. Anyway, we were at Rome Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci di Fiumicino), waiting for the Leonardo Express, for over 20 minutes before it arrived. It arrived empty, so I'm not sure where the delay could have been. Next, only half of the doors opened, and they quickly began closing on the humans boarding. Here's a train that is meant to carry passengers from an airport that only has narrow doorways and steep steps up into the carriage. I lost a thong, or flip-flop, climbing in. Those behind me watched the piece of rubber footwear do a Slinky act down the steps and onto the tracks before continuing their rush on board. That thong meant a lot to me, and I mourn its early separation. It was replaced by a pair of Italian leather sandals in Florence, but I still have the lost shoe's twin. I shall keep it forever.

For us, Italy was all about the train. We had been warned about driving in Italy, and I thought being a pedestrian was enough of a risk. We caught the train from Rome to Cortona, but, of course, we got off at the wrong Cortona stop. Cortona-Camucia, not Cortona-Perugia! Dummy! We hitched rides around Tuscany, noting the frustration in our American family members that each intersection merely tells you which direction to turn for the next intersection. Driving in Italy seemed to be like finding your way through a cornfield maze, at best, like playing QBert at worst.

France
We took a sleeper car from Florenze to Nice, as has been blog-noted. That was a great experience. More details here.

In Nice, we picked up our Peugeot, the car that would take us north to Belgium. A fella on VirtualTourist clued me into their Open Europe plan. It was essentially a leased car, which provided huge savings over car rental. If you are an American citizen and need a car for an extended period of time, check it out. The car didn't give us any problems, but 24 hour roadside assistance was included. The only problem was that they could not grasp the fact that I was not flying to Nice. In countless emails and phone conversations, I stressed that I would be arriving by try and will be traveling for weeks before I get there. For weeks before I got there, their office made frantic attempts to get in touch with me to find out what airline and flight I would be arriving on. Still, everyone I dealt with was helpful and friendly, even if a little deaf.

Now we got to drive! Our first European road trip was to Monaco & Monte Carlo. I still don't get which which one is which, but it was a bit of a let-down. The drive was nice! Speaking of nice, it was tough to find a place to park in Nice. Things got a lot easier once we left the Mediterranean Coast. French people are anal drivers, though. On a three lane highway, with no other vehicles in sight, I was in the middle lane when a car came up behind me in the right lane. He crossed to the middle lane, tailgated for a moment, then flashed me. I moved to the right, he passed me, and moved back into the right lane. I gave a puzzled look that he could not see.

Our biggest road trip was in France, when we drove from Avignon to Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Our decision to take small roads caused us to spend a good ten hours in the car, but the views were amazing. Most of the time we were behind a truck, but left and right were gorgeous.

Elsewhere
Those sticklers for independence in Switzerland charged 30 Swiss francs to drive in their country, but besides that, driving was free. Gas wasn't cheap, but not a lot of tolls. Somehow we made our way around without a map in countries where we could not speak the language. I developed a special skill that enabled me to magically find every hotel without getting lost. When that failed, I would run into the closest hotel and ask for directions to the hotel we were staying at. Those guys love to use the little maps they keep behind the counter.

Driving gave us some freedom to see some of the smaller towns and less-traveled roads. Avoiding the highways in Switzerland enabled us to see far more of the countryside, but probably doubled the travel time. As we made our way north, it was interesting to see the change in crops, such as large expanses of vineyards giving way to hop fields. Sunflowers stood like waiting armies in every country we visited in Europe, seeming only to grow shorter as we climbed up to the Low Countries.

Belgium
Once we dropped off the car in Brussels, and Jan made his way out of the one-way dead-end at the airport, we were back on the trains. A much more relaxing and Earth-friendly way to travel, I would try to take more trains when we get back to Europe.

Back to New York
I've already double blogged this leg of the journey, so I don't have much to add. This British Airways flight was booked through Qantas on miles, so we had a very long layover. The flight itself was pleasant, and would have to take first place in comparison to other airlines of the trip. It was a pleasant and comfortable way to spend a few hours thinking about the incredible trip we had just finished.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Big Trip Photos Mapped

Google offers a free photo-sharing application called Picasa. I don't use it for much, but I created an account and had all the photos I had added to blog posts automatically added to an album. The result was an eclectic mix of images ranging from coneheads and John Howard to rubber duckies and Sam Coates. Pretty neat. But next I dragged some of the photos to a map, dropping them on the city where the photos was taken. Very cool. Now you can roughly follow the path we took from Rome to Brussels. I fear this may expose my secret identity... but it's worth it. Check out the photo map here.

Friday, September 21, 2007

Farewell Germany, Heading to Belgium!

One of the main reasons we stayed in Düsseldorf was because I thought it was on the way to Brussels from Koblenz. I was wrong, but the drive was very entertaining. We had seen a postcard for a Chuck Close exhibit at the Ludwig Forum in Aachen and decided to make a stop. Winner, all around.

Chuck Close is an incredible portrait artist who has been painting for over 30 years. Most of his early paintings were brush paintings of people he knew. They were almost always extremely large. He began experimenting with making entire portraits out of fingerprints or dots, and these were amazingly lifelike. In 1988 Close suffered a spinal artery collapse, which left him a quadriplegic, but he has continued painting with his brush between his teeth. As perhaps the greatest proof that art comes from the brain rather than the hand, Close's portraits since then have continued to improve on earlier techniques and trump earlier paintings repeatedly. If you hear of a Chuck Close exhibit coming your way, please go. His Web site.

The rest of the Ludwig Forum in Aachen was almost as impressive. We pulled in at 11:50AM and were told to wait there at the counter until noon before we could pay and enter. That was a bit weak, considering we were the only people there and the counter was in the middle of the exhibition space. Still, the variety of art on display was fantastic. For a stop of a few hours, you could not beat the Ludwig Forum.

Back in the car, we drove through the Netherlands on the way to Belgium. The truck stop we chose for a snack provided appropriate views of windmills, and they served excellent beer, but the food was unbuyable. Actually, why offer good beer at a truck stop? Especially 8% Belgian beer... seems like asking for road rage.

http://dwarbi.com/BigTrip/Germany-Aachen/Germany-Aachen.html

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Saddle Up, Boys, It's Time for Düsseldorf!

Düsseldorf kept us up at night. We were there for two nights, and it kept us up both nights in fact. This is a party town.

During our stay in mid-July, the city was lively with students and locals, many of whom seemed to have been transplanted from another country, but there were still locals. For a city of this size, the number of tourists was small. It was an odd mix of foreigners who knew the city well, a by-product of Düsseldorf's successful economy. The kind of party-goers who know how to party. We stopped by a few of the bars in the Alstadt, or Old Town, which is often called the "longest bar in the world" due to the fact that it has over 300 bars and clubs.

The specialty drink of Düsseldorf is the altbier, or Old Beer, which is brewed in a few of the larger pubs in the area. Most of these brewpubs serve only one beer, which servers carry in large numbers, poured in the traditional glasses, on enormous trays. Upon arriving at Uerige Obergärige Hausbrauerei, we weren't asked what we wanted, but two glasses of altbier were plopped down on the top of our high table. The waiter then took the pencil from behind his ear and made two strikes on my coaster. About fifteen minutes later, when my glass was empty (the traditional glasses are small), the waiter traded my glass for a full on and quickly drew another line on the coaster. When Dana and I decided to leave, he glanced at my coaster and told me how much we owed. With one beer to serve and the serving method down to perfection, it's no wonder that they can charge just 2 Euro a beer and still make a profit. It's an excellent deal for the customers, too, who can get as much of that malty goodness as they wish as quickly as they wish.

That night a group of rowdy Irish travelers in the room next too ours kept us up from 4AM until 5AM. Only when I pounded on the wall nearly hard enough to go through it did they simmer down. Surprisingly, this was the first time on our trip we were kept up by carousing neighbors.

Back in the Alstadt, the Old Town showed signs of the night before. Though it was late morning, the streets were empty. Of humans, that is. A few spots on the street had remnants of the partying from the night before. Bits dispelled here and there, if you know what I mean. We steared clear of the "Longest Bar in the World" until Düsseldorf's janitors could get a chance to clean it up.

The art scene is impressive in Düsseldorf. We weren't too impressed by the MTV dancers we saw practicing on the sidewalk, but the exhibits at Kunstmuseum K21 were better. The cloudy weather forced us inside. As good as the museum was, I enjoyed the bizarre statues scattered around the city even more. This is Germany, after all, so odd sculptures are to be expected. The fierce fountain of Triton on the canal Kö; the sculpture of a guy wearing an apron gesturing to a boy holding a sword; two bronze figures - one fat, one skinny - seemingly about to have a throw-down; the number of statues of "ordinary Germans" in full color and placed high up on pedestals... these were some of my favorites. Unfortunately, I could not find out much information about these statues. If you know of a site where I can find more information, please comment and let me know!

Night number two was disrupted by Americans on the street. Again, 4AM, this time with one rallying call: "Saddle up, boys, saddle up!"

Overall impression Düsseldorf: It would have been enough to spend one night. The food and beer were great, as was the artwork, but the city felt a bit grungy. Perhaps the seemingly transient nature of many of its residents has prevented it from developing a solid character of its own. To be fair, we were only there for two nights, and it doesn't help that our visit was preceded by stops in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, München, Bamberg, and Koblenz.

Düsseldorf in photo-reality. You will notice that we are having a great time in those photos. We don't regret having stopped there, but, simply put, our others destinations in Germany were even more enjoyable.

Friday, September 14, 2007

Koblenz - Bikes, Castles & Fickle Weather

On July 9th we arrived in Koblenz, in the Rhineland, Germany. With the first construction taking place around 1000 BC, in the form of fortifications at what is now Festung Ehrenbreitstein, this was one of the oldest sites of civilization that we visited.

The old city was built up in the triangle where the river Mosel meets the river Rhine. At the very tip of this convergence is Deutsches Eck, or German corner, atop which stands a massive statue of the German Emperor Wilhelm I. This monument was first erected at the end of the 19th century, but it was seriously destroyed by an American hand grenade during World War II. A new statue was inaugurated in 1993, as a symbol of German unity... and as a tourist attraction. The site is impressive, and the view of the Rhine Gorge from its high pedestal offers an excellent view to both Wilhelm I and the Americans who climb below him.

Koblenz maintains the difficult balance of being inviting to tourists but not too touristy. The city is surrounded by magnificent castles and wine regions, so foreign guests should be expected. With the exception of one bus tour that dumped its contents onto a town square I was trying to photograph, the travelers seemed to blend in well. I appreciated the fact that the tourist council didn't shut down - or was unable to shut down - the bizarre sex shop in the middle of the old town. "Local flavor", that's what I learned to call it back in fifth grade. Of course Mrs. Carey wasn't referring to female mannequins in lingerie and male mannequins in camouflage and carrying lightsabers.

What of these castles? After Dana and I had seen enough cathedrals in Italy and France to last a lifetime, we didn't think the same thing would happen for castles. And it didn't... but we definitely would have overdosed had we visited every castle within 20 minutes of Koblenz. (There are about a dozen.) To get some exercise and delay the castle-touring, we went to Lahnstein, on the river Lahn, to rent bikes. The operation was run out of the guy's garage, but the bikes held up well enough. The weather, unfortunately, did not. Five minutes into our adventure, just after we had biked through the town and crossed the Lahn onto the bike path, the rain started. Bikes were delivered back to the guy's garage, and we delivered ourselves to a cafe for some excellent goulash.

And so we went to a castle. Marksburg Castle. Admittance was only allowed with a tour, and tours in English were only given when prearranged, so we tagged along with a bunch of 12 year old British students, all girls, who were probably really pissed to be missing the premiere of Harry Potter. The tour was excellent, and the schoolgirls were well-behaved. The castle has never (yet) been conquered, but after taking notes and photographing the interiors, I'm pretty sure I can assemble a team to do it. After all, the occupants these days are often distracted by updating their Web page and selling souvenirs. Sure, they have a tower full of genuine medieval swords and a dungeon full of torture equipment*, but I figure all we need is a helicopter and maybe Jack Bauer. Let me know if you are interested.

Night led us back into the old town for a bite and a walk. In Görresplatz there is a fountain that tells the story of the city of Koblenz. On a base that is an overflowing rowboat carrying barrels of wine, each stage of the city's existence is stacked on the one previous. So in this tower, a sort of temporal totem pole, you can see the town sacked by the Franks and destroyed by the Thirty Years War and both world wars. On the top is the city as it is today. Historiensäule am Görresplatz was built by Juergen Webers.

Our second full day in Koblenz was much sunnier, so we saddled the bikes once again. The rain held off while we rode along the river Lahn, checking out the old mansions and a few castles on the way to Bad Ems and back. We popped into a small pub on the river as well. The only parking there was for boats and bikes. I went to the bar and waited patiently for about eight minutes. Finally I tried pressing the Big Mouth Billy Bass on the wall but the batteries were dead. The bell seemed a reasonable second choice, but MAN was that loud! The publican came up from the basement, where she may have been buried and reawakened by the gong I had just sounded. If that was the case, my Paulaner hefe still tasted just fine.

Follow the words above in picture form here.

Stop at the Würzburg Hospital/Winery

Well, it's not quite a hospital anymore... it's a home for the elderly, and it has a tasting room open to the public! Now here's a part of Germany that enjoys its wine almost as much as it enjoys its beer. Sit back in that office chair and I'll explain. It's not really a long story, so you don't have to get too comfortable.

It all started back in the 16th century when the prince-bishop of Würzburg named Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn founded a hospital called Juliusspital. A wine estate was associated with the hospital from the start, providing revenue to subsidize it. This is still the case. Wine is sold from a store on the premises of the home, and by the glass in a tasting room. Both provide very good wine at an excellent price. Dana and I were happy to contribute to the cause. The residents of Juliusspital also receive a ration (1/2 pint) of their wine every day. On Sundays, they get two rations. Sundays are as notorious for the wild hook-ups during crafts sessions as for the wicked fights that break out over bridge.

The Würzburgian beer lovers and brewers, unwilling to let the Würzburgite winemakers and oenophiles steal their town golden boy, brew and drink a wheat beer called "Julius Echter Hefe-Weissbier".

Also notable in Würzburg:

  • 85% of the city was destroyed during WWII. In the decades since, it has been meticulously reconstructed.
  • St. Kilian, an Irish missionary in Würzburg in the 8th century, converted many locals to Christianity. One person he didn't convert had him and his companions, St. Colman and St. Totnan, beheaded. Once a year, on St. Kilian's day, their skulls are paraded around town in a glass box, then put on display in the cathedral for a week. Our timing was perfect!
  • The city had enough amusing statues to keep us entertained during our brief stopover between the amusing statues of Bamberg and the amusing statues of Koblenz.

So we bid farewell to the river Main and set off for the river Rhine. This visit was on the day of my birthday. That was over two months ago. I wonder if I can milk my birthday all the way to 2008...

While I work on that, check out the photos from Würzburg

Sunday, September 09, 2007

Bamberg Photos

Bad dwarbi!

I had a broken link for the photos of Bamberg, Germany. this one will work.

Friday, September 07, 2007

Bamberg, Germany

If I had to pick our favorite stop during the Big Trip, I would choose Bamberg. This is surprising, no doubt, but the city had so much to offer and so few crowds. It's a functioning city in Germany, and the entire Old Town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The criticism of UNESCO, that once a site is designated World Heritage it begins to deteriorate due to an onslaught of travelers, but that does not hold true here. It's probably true of The Great Barrier Reef, though. If only coral were as durable as stone.

Our visit coincided with a festival in Bamberg called "Unterm Sternenmantel". The Google translation of this term is "Unterm star coat", but it's actually a celebration of 1000 years of having a bishop. From what I could gather, they consider their year of founding 1007, when Rome recognized their significance by creating a diocese there: "1000 Jahre Bistum Bamberg". In honor of the occasion, the square in front of the Bamberg Cathedral was turned into a giant bier garten! That's Germany for you. The locally-brewed beer was not served in plastic cups, but you gave a deposit of a few Euro to received a stein, which you could fill as often as you like for 2 Euro. There was much to be seen, so I only had one.

The city is peppered with sculptures, both old and new, and they have not one, but two beautiful rose gardens. Beer from their nine local breweries can be enjoyed in one of the small pubs or one of the massive beer gardens. The River Main runs alongside the Old Town, and some of the most beautiful buildings in Germany can be found on it. Needless to say, there are a few things to do in Bamberg. We did quite a bit of walking, from the Wilde-Rose-Keller to the Klosterburg St. Michael, and enjoyed a few local brews, especially the fresh rauchbier. This is a smoked beer, the specialty of Bamberg. The best producer of this style, in my opinion, is Brauerei Heller-Trum, maker of Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier. It's excellent in a bottle, but it's far better fresh on tap. And in Bamberg. With a pile of Bavarian food in front of you. Surrounded by magnificent Medieval architecture.

Don't miss these photos. Centurione I to Kunigunde; Doorknob to Door knocker.

Thursday, September 06, 2007

Munich/München

With our stay in Garmisch-Partenkirchen cut a day short, we found last-minute accommodation in München, the capitol of Bavaria and Germany's 3rd largest city. We knew the beer would be good, and it was, but the city itself was overrun with tourists. Dana and I found ourselves avoiding the major avenues and squares in favor of the smaller back streets.

The architecture is phenomenal, despite the fact that all statues and sculptures are covered in netting. Perhaps this is why pigeons rule over most pf Europe but are rather uncommon in Germany. While this may keep the stone structures poop-free, it severely detracts from the beauty of the artwork. München was hit hard by air raids during World War II, but much of the city has been restored to its original design. Amazingly, the towers of Frauenkirche, one of the most famous buildings in München, remained intact while nearly all of the rest of the church was destroyed. München was an early stronghold of the Nazis, and the first concentration camp, at Dachau, was built just 10 miles outside of the city. Not surprisingly, it was very difficult to find the concentration camp using road signs, which we attempted upon our departure. Dachau is now the site of an important museum, and we're disappointed to have missed it. Conversely, München was a site of strong opposition to totalitarianism during WWII. Among them was Rupert Mayer, whose resting place we came across in the Bürgersaalkirche.

On a lighter note, and as stated earlier, the beer in München rocks. Our visit landed on a Friday night, so we got ourselves a good table at Andescher am Dom and settled in for some excellent Bavarian fare and monastic beer brewed by the monks at Klosterbrauerei Andechs nearby. The quality of these beers was such that the four brews served on tap at the restaurant were more than enough to satisfy my Bavarian-bier-starved palate. The Andechser Doppelbock Dunkel was particularly smooth.

Over the course of the next day in München, we climbed to the top of Peterskirche for a view of the city from above, popped by the Viktualienmarkt for a pickle, had a beer at the famed Hofbrauhaus and witnessed vegetarians pretending to shoot people wearing Aardvark masks at a PETA demonstration. An eventful day, I must say.

Photos of Munich/Fotos von München

Friday, August 31, 2007

Videos from Gasthof Fraundorfer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen

During our lengthy dinner/dancing/drinking in this fine Bavarian establishment in the German Alps, I managed to get a few videos. And here we go...

Walking into the bier hall:


A short clip of the slap dancing. These young guys worked for beer. You could tell how many places they had visited when they came back later in the night!


A John Denver classic in a German bier hall:


Finally, the German Oompa Band plays one of our favorite tunes from Dirty Dancing:

Bier Hall in Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a town in the German Alps, just north of the border with Austria. Of all the places we had booked for accommodation, Gasthof Fraundorfer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen was the only one that I talked about and really looked forward to. (For most of the trip, I decided it would be best to arrive without expectations.) Why was Gasthof Fraundorfer so special? Check out their site and you'll see! My digifriend ColoradoBobs put me onto this place and the thought of staying in a German bier hall/guesthouse was irresistible, so I booked in for two nights... what a shame it was when I realized, just a week before our planned arrival, that I booked for the 5th and 6th of June while we were actually staying on the 5th and 6th of July*! Thankfully, they managed to squeeze us in for one night. Ordinarily they would have been able to find room for two nights, but 30,000 bikers were due to arrive in town the following day. Many of these bikers were already there, and we enjoyed their company that night of dinner, drinks, singing and laughing.

Seating is in the Bavarian tradition: small groups are combined to fill a bigger table. Dana and I were seated with two other American couples - we think they planned that - with whom we became friends for the night. As the music continued and the excellent beer flowed (mostly fresh Paulaner), the slap dancing began along with yodeling and meeting some folks at other tables. Dana and I were among the last to leave, along with our newly acquired Russian and German buddies.

If you are ever in the area, plan a trip to . Try a bierlikore (warm beer mixed with a spot of liquor, topped with whipped cream and served in a shot glass on a ski) eat as much as you can fit in your stomach, sing along and stay in one of the cozy rooms just upstairs.

*This turned out to be the only mistake made in my planning of the 44 night trip... could have been worse! OK, there was the near mistake in Florence, when I thought we were staying one less night in our hotel, and dropped train ticket the next day, but it all worked out in the end!

Get your fix of slap-dancing photos here.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Deine Karte Bitte Nehmen!

I had a rather unpleasant experience the other day here in Germany. I have found nearly every German to be extremely pleasant and helpful, so the rude encounter was even more of a surprise. I went to get cash out of a bank, and the teller asked if I wanted to be helped in German or English. Of course I preferred English... and the teller proceeded to shout every request and statement at me. "Please take your card!" and "One moment please!" Thankfully the transaction was a quick one. It was an automated teller machine, but still, do they need to keep the exclamation points after every statement just to make it feel like a more authentic German experience? I took my money and the machine was already shouting at the next customer, "Deine Karte bitte einsetzen!"

It was a bit like our one bad experience in New Zealand.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

My Special Day

Yesterday I turned the big three oh. That's right, 30. This event, of course, initiated a great deal of introspection, as evidenced by the photo to the left. That's me thinking about life while gazing at the sky.

So far 30 does not feel much different from 29 except that Dana said I'm starting to get wrinkly. That must be from all my days out on the range wrangling wild horses. The good news is that my hair is staying put, the bad news is that my sisters-in-law all say that hair will start to sprout from my back this year.

My birthday festivities started in the German Alps and will continue, officially, until tomorrow. Tomorrow we head to Düsseldorf, so I hope to find a proper way to end the tridectatinal of my life. Last night, on my actual birthday, Dana surprised me with a desert of three crepes filled with Nutella. When the crepes came, I thought, "Oh perfect, a crepe for each decade of my life," and then Dana ate a half of a decade.

and happy birthday John Tesh & Fred Savage.

Sunday, July 08, 2007

My Last Night As A 20-Something

We're about to head out for a night in Bamberg to celebrate my pre-birthday. Tomorrow I turn 30, but we're dragging it out a bit. I should say that I am dragging it out as an excuse to get more Bamberg beer in me. Judging by the signs around the city, there's no wrong way to turn...

Prost!

Saturday, July 07, 2007

A Week and a Half Left

With just about ten days of our Big Trip remaining, it's starting to feel like the kind of holiday most people would take. Most people in Australia, that is, not the US. Americans would call a 10 day trip a honeymoon. Aussie would call it a weekend away, and a honeymoon would be three months long. Three moons made of honey, ken oath. Struth mate.

It's just as well that we start to make our way back. The food and drink has been incredible. Italy, France & Germany... you can imagine what we have been eating. If you have a really good imagination, then you can also imagine what we ate in Switzerland, Singapore and Lichtenstein.

We are now in Bamberg, Germany. This is a photo of our room, which is more like an apartment. It was a great find, and it's right in the middle of the old town. The kitchen area is separate from the bedroom, which is perfect for Dana while I tippity-tap into the blog.

Good night and Happy 777.

German Sing-A-Long

On Thursday night, Dana and I were in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany, staying at Gasthof-Fraundorfer. Dinner here in the Alps was quite an event. There was traditional German music, dancing and plenty to eat and drink. A BMW biker convention was descending upon the town, but some of the other guests were from overseas like us. Here's a slice of the night.

*Warning, this video contains explicit lyrics... well, one explicit lyric. One word, really... but it's the big one. Sorry Mom.

Thursday, July 05, 2007

Getting Slap Happy

Tonight is our first night in Germany, and we're set for a big dinner right in our guest house. Check it out. The town is Garmisch-Partenkirchen, just a short, five hour drive from Interlaken. Dana did almost all of the driving... through Switzerland, Lichtenstein, Austria and finally up into Bavaria. The drive was astounding, with waterfalls on both sides nearly the entire way.

Dana's napping now, prepping for a big night of German food, German beer and German dancing. From what I hear, we'll all be slapping each other by the end of the night. I'll let you know how it goes!