Mobile Meteor

Be sure to check out my new site: Mobile Meteor!
Showing posts with label Switzerland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Switzerland. Show all posts

Saturday, November 17, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - It's Over (Links To All Posts)

That's it. The trip has been over for quite some time now. All of the photos have been posted, and some of the stories have been written down here. Below are links to all Big Trip blog entries and photos from the journey. If you're planning a trip to any of these countries, I hope my blog will help you. If you have any questions about accommodation in any of these locations, please leave a comment and I will get back to you. It's just a bit to much to do an entry on all the wonderful and mediocre places we stayed. I will say that our most uncomfortable nights were in 1-star and a 4-star hotels (three nights in the former, one night in the latter) while the 2-star and 3-star joints were fantastic, almost without exception.

That's it for the Big Trip. 98 links below.

Planning
The Big Trip
Singapore Locked In
Queensland Locked In
(Then Dana told me it would be overkill to write before the trip even started.)

Queensland, Australia
We Found Internet Access
Writing in Cape Tribulation
Mt Sorrow
*Cape Tribulation photos
Poolside Extravaganza
The Great Barrier Reef
*Great Barrier Reef photos
Wild Queensland
Found: Previously Unblogged Photos from Queensland
*Queensland photos

Sydney Airport
Aiport photos

Singapore
We Sail Tonight For Singapore
*Singapore photos
Whatever?

Italy
Rest in Tuscany
La Guerra a Firenze (The War in Florence)
Roma
*Rome photos
Posting from Florence
Sleeper
Cortona
*Cortona photos
Siena
*Siena photos
Assisi
*Assisi photos
Montepulciano
*Montepulciano photos
Firenze!!! (Florence.)
*Florence photos
The Villa in Cortona
*Villa photos

France
Nice Post
The Greatest Toilet in the World
Yes, It's Nice
*Nice photos
Monaco & Monte Carlo
*Monaco & Monte Carlo photos
Avignon - Dance!
*Avignon photos
Bridges & Cheese
*Roquefort photos
A Stop in Orange
*Orange photos
Lyon, Lyons, Lions
*Lyons photos
Lyons at Night
*Lyons at Night photos
Lunch in Annecy
*Annecy photos

Switzerland
Greetings from Switzerland
Montreux & Château de Chillon
*Montreux photos
I'm Going to Beat You With a Pig Bladder!
*Interlaken photos

Germany
Getting Slap Happy
German Sing-A-Long
A Week and a Half Left
My Last Night as a 20-Something
My Special Day
Deine Karte Bitte Nehmen!
Bier Hall in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
*Garmisch-Partenkirchen photos
Videos from Gasthof Fraundorfer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Munich/München
*Munich/München photos
Bamberg, Germany
*Bamberg photos
Stop at the Würzburg Hospital/Winery
*Würzburg photos
Koblenz - Bikes, Castles & Fickle Weather
*Koblenz photos
Saddle Up, Boys, It's Time for Düsseldorf!
*Düsseldorf photos
Farewell Germany, Heading to Belgium!
*Aachen photos

Belgium
Bye Bye Holiday
In Leuven with Jan & Maxine
*Leuven photos
Big Time in Brussels
*Brussels photos
Brussels Grote Markt/Grand Place
*Grote Markt photos
In Bruges/In Brugge
*Brugge photos
Antwerpen
*Antwerpen photos
The Big Trip Ends

Appendices
The Big Trip Ends (OG style)
Big Trip Photos Mapped
Pigeons Rule the World
*Pigeons Ruling the World photos
Faces in Stone (an other matter)
*Faces in Stone photos
The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Friday, November 16, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Australia
The food in the tropics of Queensland surprised us. This was the one destination where I did not expect to find fantastic meals and drink - and there it was, right in front of me! The dishes we enjoyed in Cape Tribulation were mostly "New Australian" takes on traditional Australian fare, like barramundi. The wine lists were solid, but the beer was lacking outside of Cairns, where we found a better than average hole in the wall at which to avoid returning to our hostel. Similarly, the food we ate at the Great Barrier Reef on the live aboard scuba dive boat operated by Prodive was also wonderful. I did try to tackle the cassowary to taste, but no luck.

Singapore
Singapore was a culinary destination for us, even before reading Calvin Trillin's article "Three Chopsticks" in the most recent food issue of The New Yorker. We quickly learned that plenty of good, inexpensive food can be found in markets, like shopping malls. Dana and I tried everything we could, but we left with dozens of intriguing menu options untasted. Some day we will get back to eat as much as humanly possible.

Italy
I don't usually seek out Italian food and, honestly, I think the cuisine is too heavily relied upon by those nervous to branch out. The freshness and simplicity of the food we ate in Italy was astounding. I could not get enough. I've never eaten so much pasta in my life! Well, since college, at least. We learned a lot of the essentials in Assisi during a cooking class. From our eating experiences in Italy, the two ingredients I will remember most will be the truffles I ate throughout the peninsula and the chicken neck I ate in Florence. Most Italian restaurants won't risk their reputation by serving a bad house wine, so the appropriate liquid accompaniment to these fantastic plates were both tasty and inexpensive... €5 for a liter at one restaurant in Rome. Of course, we had even better wines in Montepulciano.

France
Of course France is known for its culinary delights, and we sought out one of my favorite cheeses, made in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Lyons had plenty to offer, including the famous Le Sud, but our best meal in the country was lunch on our last day, in Annecy. Here we dined on the traditional alpine meal of raclette cheese melted over bread, potatoes and other equally healthy foodstuffs.
"What about the wine?"
Oh yes, the wine was great, but we didn't venture into too many wine regions and did not get to do any tasting. I can say that the French wine was much better than the French beer.

Switzerland
Switzerland offered some very good food, but it was by far the worst value during our trip. The Swiss franc had about the same exchange rate as the Australian dollar, but the costs were much higher. What's more, when we ordered a bottle of wine, it was 500ml instead of the usual 750ml. The travel books and Web sites mentioned Switzerland's secret: fantastic wine that was not exported. The impression was that these wines are SO GOOD that the Swiss don't want to share it with the rest of the world. Well, we tried a few, and they can keep it. The vineyards do make for beautiful scenery.

Germany
These Germans are great eaters and great drinkers! Large portions of flavorful meals served with expectedly good beer or unexpectedly good wine. Sure, I knew they make some great riesling and gewurztraminer, but the range was broader than that. Würzburg surprised us with their winery/hospital. With beer specialties such as altbier and rauchbier, Düsseldorf from and Bamberg, respectively, and impressive bier halls across the land, it's a true beer destination. Dana and I were even a bit overwhelmed early on, and we picked up sushi for lunch in München. Heresy!

Belgium
But we saved the best for last, didn't we? There's not much I can add on the quality of Belgian beer that I have not already posted, but I will reemphasize the quality of the food, in terms of taste, presentation and service. I can think of no other place where people genuinely seem to care so much about your culinary experience. Not because they want to impress you, but because they want you enjoy your meal. Then again, I guess they really have to do that if they're going to serve you horse.

Monday, October 29, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Getting Around

We made our roundabout way from Sydney to New York on a combinations of planes, trains, boats and cars. Frequent flier miles covered a fair bit of it. Multiple treks between New York & Sydney had its perks!

Queensland, Australia
We flew from Sydney to Cairns on Jetstar. Since it was a domestic flight on a budget airline, the baggage limit was 20kg (44lbs) per person. We had packed our luggage based on international travel, since we were, after all, flying back to New York. We packed those bags to the max, full of clothes to last us for 50 days of traveling in a wide variety of climates, plus the stuff we forgot to ship back to the States. According to Jetstar policy, we were fined for each kilogram extra, which amounted to roughly the cost of two Qantas flights to Singapore. Slight exaggeration, but whatever we saved was canceled out. Oh well. We were still in a daze from our fun-filled farewells, so we hardly noticed the absence of entertainment, food and leg space. When Dana and I were confronted with the huge fine from Jetstar at 6AM the day we were leaving Sydney, still reeling from saying farewell to dozens of great friends, we reminded ourselves that there would likely be many more instances of unexpected charges, and we would have to roll with it. Thankfully, it started and ended with Jetstar.

The car we used in Cairns was obtained on miles from Velocity, accumulated by Dana's numerous Virgin Blue flights to Melbourne. There were not many hidden fees for the Europcar we picked up at the airport in Cairns, and it was a piece of cake. That little white car fared better than I did in the Queensland rain forest.

Sydney
There was a scheduled layover in Sydney during our flight from Cairns to Singapore: 7 hours. But that was OK, because we booked the flight on Qantas with miles. Unfortunately, the flight was delayed 3 hours, and we were not allowed to leave the airport for security reasons. Sydney Airport has shockingly little to do and very few places to eat. Dana and I passed the time watching movies on the iBook and reading. I also squeezed a meal voucher from Qantas, which we used to purchase a salad and a bottle of wine. For about ten hours, we sat in that airport cafe and watched the sun and clouds play above the beautiful city that we were leaving. Blades of Glory was showing on the flight, so that was funny.

Singapore
Qantas was decent, as usual, but we were really looking forward to the flight from Singapore to Rome: Emirates. I had booked the flight through Expedia, and we actually had to pay for it, so we couldn't wait to experience this airline that everyone said was so good. It Sucked. That wasn't a typo, it sucked with a capital S. The seats were tiny, the food was absurdly small, and the mediocre films being shown were worse than they would have been on a Qantas flight. And the flight attendants were rude. Worse than the in-flight experience was the pre-flight experience. Due to our delay on arriving in Singapore, we did not get to our hotel until 2AM. Our Emirates flight was set to depart the following morning at 3AM. The visit was an enjoyable whirlwind, like riding on Space Mountain for 24 hours, but getting back to the airport was like getting back in line for another ride when you really have to vomit. Security screening led us into a tiny waiting room about half the size of the plane. As we sat, drained from the hectic stopover, we were forced to watch Ellen Degeneres dance in a raincoat to a Justin Timberlake song as a bunch of uncoordinated audience members danced along, wearing much cheaper raincoats. Plastic garbage bags, really. The flight was delayed, but they didn't announce that until 4AM, after I had confronted the service desk. We were freed to urinate before being cattle-prodded back into the holding pen.

Dubai
The layover in Dubai was a feast for the senses. We landed at about 6AM local time. A shuttle bus picked us up at the plane and drove us past the airport expansion to our arrival gate. It took about 25 minutes. Someday soon, this will be the biggest and busiest airport in the world... or is it already? It seemed to be, with the massive shopping centers built into this timeless alcove. At 6:45AM Dubai time I was being offered samples of liquor. Instead I bought the most expensive face lotion I have ever purchased. I still have plenty left. I'm savoring it.

Italy
Our first European train experience was in Italy. I understand why they fired Mussolini, but do they keep the trains running poorly just to spite his ghost? I mean, they hung him upside-down and skinned him, isn't that enough? Do they need to make innocent American tourists suffer? Perhaps. Perhaps. Anyway, we were at Rome Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci di Fiumicino), waiting for the Leonardo Express, for over 20 minutes before it arrived. It arrived empty, so I'm not sure where the delay could have been. Next, only half of the doors opened, and they quickly began closing on the humans boarding. Here's a train that is meant to carry passengers from an airport that only has narrow doorways and steep steps up into the carriage. I lost a thong, or flip-flop, climbing in. Those behind me watched the piece of rubber footwear do a Slinky act down the steps and onto the tracks before continuing their rush on board. That thong meant a lot to me, and I mourn its early separation. It was replaced by a pair of Italian leather sandals in Florence, but I still have the lost shoe's twin. I shall keep it forever.

For us, Italy was all about the train. We had been warned about driving in Italy, and I thought being a pedestrian was enough of a risk. We caught the train from Rome to Cortona, but, of course, we got off at the wrong Cortona stop. Cortona-Camucia, not Cortona-Perugia! Dummy! We hitched rides around Tuscany, noting the frustration in our American family members that each intersection merely tells you which direction to turn for the next intersection. Driving in Italy seemed to be like finding your way through a cornfield maze, at best, like playing QBert at worst.

France
We took a sleeper car from Florenze to Nice, as has been blog-noted. That was a great experience. More details here.

In Nice, we picked up our Peugeot, the car that would take us north to Belgium. A fella on VirtualTourist clued me into their Open Europe plan. It was essentially a leased car, which provided huge savings over car rental. If you are an American citizen and need a car for an extended period of time, check it out. The car didn't give us any problems, but 24 hour roadside assistance was included. The only problem was that they could not grasp the fact that I was not flying to Nice. In countless emails and phone conversations, I stressed that I would be arriving by try and will be traveling for weeks before I get there. For weeks before I got there, their office made frantic attempts to get in touch with me to find out what airline and flight I would be arriving on. Still, everyone I dealt with was helpful and friendly, even if a little deaf.

Now we got to drive! Our first European road trip was to Monaco & Monte Carlo. I still don't get which which one is which, but it was a bit of a let-down. The drive was nice! Speaking of nice, it was tough to find a place to park in Nice. Things got a lot easier once we left the Mediterranean Coast. French people are anal drivers, though. On a three lane highway, with no other vehicles in sight, I was in the middle lane when a car came up behind me in the right lane. He crossed to the middle lane, tailgated for a moment, then flashed me. I moved to the right, he passed me, and moved back into the right lane. I gave a puzzled look that he could not see.

Our biggest road trip was in France, when we drove from Avignon to Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Our decision to take small roads caused us to spend a good ten hours in the car, but the views were amazing. Most of the time we were behind a truck, but left and right were gorgeous.

Elsewhere
Those sticklers for independence in Switzerland charged 30 Swiss francs to drive in their country, but besides that, driving was free. Gas wasn't cheap, but not a lot of tolls. Somehow we made our way around without a map in countries where we could not speak the language. I developed a special skill that enabled me to magically find every hotel without getting lost. When that failed, I would run into the closest hotel and ask for directions to the hotel we were staying at. Those guys love to use the little maps they keep behind the counter.

Driving gave us some freedom to see some of the smaller towns and less-traveled roads. Avoiding the highways in Switzerland enabled us to see far more of the countryside, but probably doubled the travel time. As we made our way north, it was interesting to see the change in crops, such as large expanses of vineyards giving way to hop fields. Sunflowers stood like waiting armies in every country we visited in Europe, seeming only to grow shorter as we climbed up to the Low Countries.

Belgium
Once we dropped off the car in Brussels, and Jan made his way out of the one-way dead-end at the airport, we were back on the trains. A much more relaxing and Earth-friendly way to travel, I would try to take more trains when we get back to Europe.

Back to New York
I've already double blogged this leg of the journey, so I don't have much to add. This British Airways flight was booked through Qantas on miles, so we had a very long layover. The flight itself was pleasant, and would have to take first place in comparison to other airlines of the trip. It was a pleasant and comfortable way to spend a few hours thinking about the incredible trip we had just finished.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Big Trip Photos Mapped

Google offers a free photo-sharing application called Picasa. I don't use it for much, but I created an account and had all the photos I had added to blog posts automatically added to an album. The result was an eclectic mix of images ranging from coneheads and John Howard to rubber duckies and Sam Coates. Pretty neat. But next I dragged some of the photos to a map, dropping them on the city where the photos was taken. Very cool. Now you can roughly follow the path we took from Rome to Brussels. I fear this may expose my secret identity... but it's worth it. Check out the photo map here.

Saturday, August 25, 2007

I'm Going to Beat You With a Pig Bladder!

In accordance with my new method to counteract my backblogged status, I'm going to have to give a rather quick summary of two amazing days in Switzerland, then direct you to a lump of 111 photos. I hope you're OK with this.

  • We drove through the heart of the Swiss Alps to get from Montreux to Interlaken. Halfway into the drive through the snow-capped mountains filled with waterfalls, we stopped for a sandwich in a town that didn't appear to have a name. This was the first town we entered that spoke German rather than French. We pointed at the meat, cheese & bread we wanted while making pathetic attempts to pronounce the German words for them. Whatever we ate, it was good!

  • Our hotel, Hotel Alpenblick, was in Wilderswil, just outside of Interlaken. The town was exactly the sort of quiet, sleepy village we wanted... much better than the heart of Interlaken. We had a terrace that we sat on to watch the storm clouds roll in and out. Mostly in.

  • The family-owned hotel gave every guest a morning paper. I mean a piece paper, like a print-out, that included the forecast and welcomed incoming guests while bidding farewell to those departing. The day we arrived it said, "Wir freuen uns, folgende Gäste begrüssen zu dürfen:
    Herr und Frau Hurley aus Australien"
  • The drive around Lake Thun (or the Thunersee) was lined with waterfalls just off the road. Even though it was not raining, we had to keep our windshield wipers on to clear off the dumps of water that spilled from the overflowing falls.

  • We made a stop at the 12th century building called the Oberhofen Castle. The gardens were gorgeous and the waters around the castle filled with entertaining ducks. Not quite as entertaining as a speaking duck, like Daffy or Donald, but still pretty amusing. If they tried to use the old latrines inside the castle, then they would have been funnier than any angry duck personified in a cartoon.
  • Thun offered a lot of beautiful streets on which to stroll and a massive castle overlooking the town and onwards to the lake. The castle had much better dungeon and torture facilities than the Château de Chillon. These dudes were up in towers, overlooking Thun. They would be much more effective now since captives would have to look upon the new housing developments.

  • In the museum of the Castle of Thun there is a traditional mask on display that is still used in the annual Thun fair! A man dons the mask and runs around the street, shouting and hitting women and children with pig bladders. Really? Yes. I did not make this up.

  • After two nights at the Hotel Alpenblick, we continued on our way. The food and service was excellent, and we would stay there for even longer in the future if we have the opportunity. On our first night they were offering their fondue dinner: over 120 sauces to accompany the chicken, beef, potatoes, etc that we cooked at our table. Highly recommended.

  • After leaving Switzerland we briefly drove through Liechtenstein. The country shares an open border with Switzerland, and we wanted to stop for a cup of coffee to meet an Liechtenstite Liechtenstinian Liechtensteiner, but we had no such luck. The country is tiny (62 square miles), is very similar in landscape to Switzerland and has only about 35,000 citizens. Before we even knew it, we were in Austria!

  • Enter Austria. OK, we knew it. Customs from Liechtenstein was about as rough as you'd expect, but what was much rougher was finding a cup of coffee! Liechtenstein seemed caffeine-free, so the 'cafe' sign in Austria was promising. It was actually a Chinese restaurant affiliated with the Asian food market next door. The coffee was pretty good. We didn't eat anything, and I think that's what the people working there were shouting about... but I'm not sure.

  • Driving from Switzerland to Liechtenstein to Austria felt a bit like popping in and out of different shopping centers after hours, looking for a Starbucks that might still be open.

  • We drove through the fantastic Austrian Alps for a couple of hours and were blown away by the spectacularly painted trucks they have. The waterfalls and mountains are great, of course, but entire scenes realized on a milk truck! I can die now.

Love all 111 photos of Switzerland & Austria (and maybe Liechtenstein, I'm not sure) here.

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Montreux & Château de Chillon

Enter Switzerland into our little Big Trip. We had to pay a driving tax, so for a few moments we thought about dumping the Peugot, setting it on fire and hoofing it the rest of the way through Germany and up to Belgium. We kept the Peugot. Besides that, entry into this non-EU country was easy. It was like driving into Canada from the US, but in Europe... and with multiple languages.

Switzerland has three official languages: French, German and Italian. We arrived in the French-speaking side of the nation and finished our stay in the German-speaking side. As we drove from the eastern half to the western half, the Swiss we encountered slowly shifted from speaking one language to the other. In the middle of the country, the language swapped every other word, like weaving two threads together. At least, that's how it sounded to us. In reality, the dialects are very different from the French and German spoken elsewhere in the world.

We drove along the northern edge of Lake Geneva, past Lausanne and stayed for one night in Montreux. The weather did not call for water sports. It called for Bill, and Bill wasn't home. Lake Geneva is gorgeous, and it's lined with statues of Freddy Mercury, B.B. King, Ray Charles and Vladimir Nabokov. I guess all four of them used to hang out here together. Poker buddies, maybe. Actually, Nabokov & Mercury both lived in Montreux. The statues of King & Charles show how the city has become a destination for jazz enthusiasts. They were preparing for the 40th Annual Montreux Jazz Festival when we were there. The line-up was incredible.

Montreux is known to classic rock fans as well. In 1971, Deep Purple were staying in town to record, and at the same time, Frank Zappa was there to perform. A fan set fire to the venue for the Zappa concert, the Montreux Casino, with a flare gun (or a bottle rocket or something). From their hotel across the lake, the members of Deep Purple watched the "fire in the sky" and the "smoke on the water." A legendary inspiration to metal.

Just outside of Montreux is the Château de Chillon, a castle that dates from the 11th century. It has a natural moat, having been built on a small island just in from the lake's edge. Lord Byron, inspired by the tale of a Genevois monk who was imprisoned in the basement for 6 years, wrote The Prisoner of Chillion after visiting the castle. He also add a bit of graffiti to the dungeon, carving his name into the stone. You can still clearly make out his name.

Images of Montreux, Freddy Mercury, Vladimir Nabokov and Château de Chillon

Wednesday, July 04, 2007

Greetings from Switzerland

Apologies for the lack of posts: Internet access has been sporadic and very expensive. And it's also very hard to find certain keys on these foreign keyboards. Like the exclamation point and the at symbol, especiallz. And the y is where the z should be.

Rest assured that we are accumulating lots of photos and stories for future updates. We've had a bit of rain these past few days, but the Alps are still gorgeous. Tomorrow we head to Garmerschnitz-Picklebaumenn, I think it's called, in the German Alps.

Dana and I have been working on our German. We're not very good, but we've learned that if we yell in our attempted German, then it sounds more convincing. For example, 'Can we please see the wine list?' is 'Das wein karte, bitte! VINTZNELL!'