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Showing posts with label Queensland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Queensland. Show all posts

Saturday, November 17, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - It's Over (Links To All Posts)

That's it. The trip has been over for quite some time now. All of the photos have been posted, and some of the stories have been written down here. Below are links to all Big Trip blog entries and photos from the journey. If you're planning a trip to any of these countries, I hope my blog will help you. If you have any questions about accommodation in any of these locations, please leave a comment and I will get back to you. It's just a bit to much to do an entry on all the wonderful and mediocre places we stayed. I will say that our most uncomfortable nights were in 1-star and a 4-star hotels (three nights in the former, one night in the latter) while the 2-star and 3-star joints were fantastic, almost without exception.

That's it for the Big Trip. 98 links below.

Planning
The Big Trip
Singapore Locked In
Queensland Locked In
(Then Dana told me it would be overkill to write before the trip even started.)

Queensland, Australia
We Found Internet Access
Writing in Cape Tribulation
Mt Sorrow
*Cape Tribulation photos
Poolside Extravaganza
The Great Barrier Reef
*Great Barrier Reef photos
Wild Queensland
Found: Previously Unblogged Photos from Queensland
*Queensland photos

Sydney Airport
Aiport photos

Singapore
We Sail Tonight For Singapore
*Singapore photos
Whatever?

Italy
Rest in Tuscany
La Guerra a Firenze (The War in Florence)
Roma
*Rome photos
Posting from Florence
Sleeper
Cortona
*Cortona photos
Siena
*Siena photos
Assisi
*Assisi photos
Montepulciano
*Montepulciano photos
Firenze!!! (Florence.)
*Florence photos
The Villa in Cortona
*Villa photos

France
Nice Post
The Greatest Toilet in the World
Yes, It's Nice
*Nice photos
Monaco & Monte Carlo
*Monaco & Monte Carlo photos
Avignon - Dance!
*Avignon photos
Bridges & Cheese
*Roquefort photos
A Stop in Orange
*Orange photos
Lyon, Lyons, Lions
*Lyons photos
Lyons at Night
*Lyons at Night photos
Lunch in Annecy
*Annecy photos

Switzerland
Greetings from Switzerland
Montreux & Château de Chillon
*Montreux photos
I'm Going to Beat You With a Pig Bladder!
*Interlaken photos

Germany
Getting Slap Happy
German Sing-A-Long
A Week and a Half Left
My Last Night as a 20-Something
My Special Day
Deine Karte Bitte Nehmen!
Bier Hall in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
*Garmisch-Partenkirchen photos
Videos from Gasthof Fraundorfer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Munich/München
*Munich/München photos
Bamberg, Germany
*Bamberg photos
Stop at the Würzburg Hospital/Winery
*Würzburg photos
Koblenz - Bikes, Castles & Fickle Weather
*Koblenz photos
Saddle Up, Boys, It's Time for Düsseldorf!
*Düsseldorf photos
Farewell Germany, Heading to Belgium!
*Aachen photos

Belgium
Bye Bye Holiday
In Leuven with Jan & Maxine
*Leuven photos
Big Time in Brussels
*Brussels photos
Brussels Grote Markt/Grand Place
*Grote Markt photos
In Bruges/In Brugge
*Brugge photos
Antwerpen
*Antwerpen photos
The Big Trip Ends

Appendices
The Big Trip Ends (OG style)
Big Trip Photos Mapped
Pigeons Rule the World
*Pigeons Ruling the World photos
Faces in Stone (an other matter)
*Faces in Stone photos
The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Friday, November 16, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Australia
The food in the tropics of Queensland surprised us. This was the one destination where I did not expect to find fantastic meals and drink - and there it was, right in front of me! The dishes we enjoyed in Cape Tribulation were mostly "New Australian" takes on traditional Australian fare, like barramundi. The wine lists were solid, but the beer was lacking outside of Cairns, where we found a better than average hole in the wall at which to avoid returning to our hostel. Similarly, the food we ate at the Great Barrier Reef on the live aboard scuba dive boat operated by Prodive was also wonderful. I did try to tackle the cassowary to taste, but no luck.

Singapore
Singapore was a culinary destination for us, even before reading Calvin Trillin's article "Three Chopsticks" in the most recent food issue of The New Yorker. We quickly learned that plenty of good, inexpensive food can be found in markets, like shopping malls. Dana and I tried everything we could, but we left with dozens of intriguing menu options untasted. Some day we will get back to eat as much as humanly possible.

Italy
I don't usually seek out Italian food and, honestly, I think the cuisine is too heavily relied upon by those nervous to branch out. The freshness and simplicity of the food we ate in Italy was astounding. I could not get enough. I've never eaten so much pasta in my life! Well, since college, at least. We learned a lot of the essentials in Assisi during a cooking class. From our eating experiences in Italy, the two ingredients I will remember most will be the truffles I ate throughout the peninsula and the chicken neck I ate in Florence. Most Italian restaurants won't risk their reputation by serving a bad house wine, so the appropriate liquid accompaniment to these fantastic plates were both tasty and inexpensive... €5 for a liter at one restaurant in Rome. Of course, we had even better wines in Montepulciano.

France
Of course France is known for its culinary delights, and we sought out one of my favorite cheeses, made in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Lyons had plenty to offer, including the famous Le Sud, but our best meal in the country was lunch on our last day, in Annecy. Here we dined on the traditional alpine meal of raclette cheese melted over bread, potatoes and other equally healthy foodstuffs.
"What about the wine?"
Oh yes, the wine was great, but we didn't venture into too many wine regions and did not get to do any tasting. I can say that the French wine was much better than the French beer.

Switzerland
Switzerland offered some very good food, but it was by far the worst value during our trip. The Swiss franc had about the same exchange rate as the Australian dollar, but the costs were much higher. What's more, when we ordered a bottle of wine, it was 500ml instead of the usual 750ml. The travel books and Web sites mentioned Switzerland's secret: fantastic wine that was not exported. The impression was that these wines are SO GOOD that the Swiss don't want to share it with the rest of the world. Well, we tried a few, and they can keep it. The vineyards do make for beautiful scenery.

Germany
These Germans are great eaters and great drinkers! Large portions of flavorful meals served with expectedly good beer or unexpectedly good wine. Sure, I knew they make some great riesling and gewurztraminer, but the range was broader than that. Würzburg surprised us with their winery/hospital. With beer specialties such as altbier and rauchbier, Düsseldorf from and Bamberg, respectively, and impressive bier halls across the land, it's a true beer destination. Dana and I were even a bit overwhelmed early on, and we picked up sushi for lunch in München. Heresy!

Belgium
But we saved the best for last, didn't we? There's not much I can add on the quality of Belgian beer that I have not already posted, but I will reemphasize the quality of the food, in terms of taste, presentation and service. I can think of no other place where people genuinely seem to care so much about your culinary experience. Not because they want to impress you, but because they want you enjoy your meal. Then again, I guess they really have to do that if they're going to serve you horse.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Found: Previously Unblogged Photos from Queensland

In the process of summarizing the Big Trip, I came across of cache of pictures from Tropical North Queensland. There are some shots from Port Douglas, the Daintree River, a night walk through the rain forest and the beach of Cape Tribulation. Spiders, frogs, water dragons, walking fish and even a cassowary. Enjoy the lost photos!

Monday, October 29, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Getting Around

We made our roundabout way from Sydney to New York on a combinations of planes, trains, boats and cars. Frequent flier miles covered a fair bit of it. Multiple treks between New York & Sydney had its perks!

Queensland, Australia
We flew from Sydney to Cairns on Jetstar. Since it was a domestic flight on a budget airline, the baggage limit was 20kg (44lbs) per person. We had packed our luggage based on international travel, since we were, after all, flying back to New York. We packed those bags to the max, full of clothes to last us for 50 days of traveling in a wide variety of climates, plus the stuff we forgot to ship back to the States. According to Jetstar policy, we were fined for each kilogram extra, which amounted to roughly the cost of two Qantas flights to Singapore. Slight exaggeration, but whatever we saved was canceled out. Oh well. We were still in a daze from our fun-filled farewells, so we hardly noticed the absence of entertainment, food and leg space. When Dana and I were confronted with the huge fine from Jetstar at 6AM the day we were leaving Sydney, still reeling from saying farewell to dozens of great friends, we reminded ourselves that there would likely be many more instances of unexpected charges, and we would have to roll with it. Thankfully, it started and ended with Jetstar.

The car we used in Cairns was obtained on miles from Velocity, accumulated by Dana's numerous Virgin Blue flights to Melbourne. There were not many hidden fees for the Europcar we picked up at the airport in Cairns, and it was a piece of cake. That little white car fared better than I did in the Queensland rain forest.

Sydney
There was a scheduled layover in Sydney during our flight from Cairns to Singapore: 7 hours. But that was OK, because we booked the flight on Qantas with miles. Unfortunately, the flight was delayed 3 hours, and we were not allowed to leave the airport for security reasons. Sydney Airport has shockingly little to do and very few places to eat. Dana and I passed the time watching movies on the iBook and reading. I also squeezed a meal voucher from Qantas, which we used to purchase a salad and a bottle of wine. For about ten hours, we sat in that airport cafe and watched the sun and clouds play above the beautiful city that we were leaving. Blades of Glory was showing on the flight, so that was funny.

Singapore
Qantas was decent, as usual, but we were really looking forward to the flight from Singapore to Rome: Emirates. I had booked the flight through Expedia, and we actually had to pay for it, so we couldn't wait to experience this airline that everyone said was so good. It Sucked. That wasn't a typo, it sucked with a capital S. The seats were tiny, the food was absurdly small, and the mediocre films being shown were worse than they would have been on a Qantas flight. And the flight attendants were rude. Worse than the in-flight experience was the pre-flight experience. Due to our delay on arriving in Singapore, we did not get to our hotel until 2AM. Our Emirates flight was set to depart the following morning at 3AM. The visit was an enjoyable whirlwind, like riding on Space Mountain for 24 hours, but getting back to the airport was like getting back in line for another ride when you really have to vomit. Security screening led us into a tiny waiting room about half the size of the plane. As we sat, drained from the hectic stopover, we were forced to watch Ellen Degeneres dance in a raincoat to a Justin Timberlake song as a bunch of uncoordinated audience members danced along, wearing much cheaper raincoats. Plastic garbage bags, really. The flight was delayed, but they didn't announce that until 4AM, after I had confronted the service desk. We were freed to urinate before being cattle-prodded back into the holding pen.

Dubai
The layover in Dubai was a feast for the senses. We landed at about 6AM local time. A shuttle bus picked us up at the plane and drove us past the airport expansion to our arrival gate. It took about 25 minutes. Someday soon, this will be the biggest and busiest airport in the world... or is it already? It seemed to be, with the massive shopping centers built into this timeless alcove. At 6:45AM Dubai time I was being offered samples of liquor. Instead I bought the most expensive face lotion I have ever purchased. I still have plenty left. I'm savoring it.

Italy
Our first European train experience was in Italy. I understand why they fired Mussolini, but do they keep the trains running poorly just to spite his ghost? I mean, they hung him upside-down and skinned him, isn't that enough? Do they need to make innocent American tourists suffer? Perhaps. Perhaps. Anyway, we were at Rome Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci di Fiumicino), waiting for the Leonardo Express, for over 20 minutes before it arrived. It arrived empty, so I'm not sure where the delay could have been. Next, only half of the doors opened, and they quickly began closing on the humans boarding. Here's a train that is meant to carry passengers from an airport that only has narrow doorways and steep steps up into the carriage. I lost a thong, or flip-flop, climbing in. Those behind me watched the piece of rubber footwear do a Slinky act down the steps and onto the tracks before continuing their rush on board. That thong meant a lot to me, and I mourn its early separation. It was replaced by a pair of Italian leather sandals in Florence, but I still have the lost shoe's twin. I shall keep it forever.

For us, Italy was all about the train. We had been warned about driving in Italy, and I thought being a pedestrian was enough of a risk. We caught the train from Rome to Cortona, but, of course, we got off at the wrong Cortona stop. Cortona-Camucia, not Cortona-Perugia! Dummy! We hitched rides around Tuscany, noting the frustration in our American family members that each intersection merely tells you which direction to turn for the next intersection. Driving in Italy seemed to be like finding your way through a cornfield maze, at best, like playing QBert at worst.

France
We took a sleeper car from Florenze to Nice, as has been blog-noted. That was a great experience. More details here.

In Nice, we picked up our Peugeot, the car that would take us north to Belgium. A fella on VirtualTourist clued me into their Open Europe plan. It was essentially a leased car, which provided huge savings over car rental. If you are an American citizen and need a car for an extended period of time, check it out. The car didn't give us any problems, but 24 hour roadside assistance was included. The only problem was that they could not grasp the fact that I was not flying to Nice. In countless emails and phone conversations, I stressed that I would be arriving by try and will be traveling for weeks before I get there. For weeks before I got there, their office made frantic attempts to get in touch with me to find out what airline and flight I would be arriving on. Still, everyone I dealt with was helpful and friendly, even if a little deaf.

Now we got to drive! Our first European road trip was to Monaco & Monte Carlo. I still don't get which which one is which, but it was a bit of a let-down. The drive was nice! Speaking of nice, it was tough to find a place to park in Nice. Things got a lot easier once we left the Mediterranean Coast. French people are anal drivers, though. On a three lane highway, with no other vehicles in sight, I was in the middle lane when a car came up behind me in the right lane. He crossed to the middle lane, tailgated for a moment, then flashed me. I moved to the right, he passed me, and moved back into the right lane. I gave a puzzled look that he could not see.

Our biggest road trip was in France, when we drove from Avignon to Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Our decision to take small roads caused us to spend a good ten hours in the car, but the views were amazing. Most of the time we were behind a truck, but left and right were gorgeous.

Elsewhere
Those sticklers for independence in Switzerland charged 30 Swiss francs to drive in their country, but besides that, driving was free. Gas wasn't cheap, but not a lot of tolls. Somehow we made our way around without a map in countries where we could not speak the language. I developed a special skill that enabled me to magically find every hotel without getting lost. When that failed, I would run into the closest hotel and ask for directions to the hotel we were staying at. Those guys love to use the little maps they keep behind the counter.

Driving gave us some freedom to see some of the smaller towns and less-traveled roads. Avoiding the highways in Switzerland enabled us to see far more of the countryside, but probably doubled the travel time. As we made our way north, it was interesting to see the change in crops, such as large expanses of vineyards giving way to hop fields. Sunflowers stood like waiting armies in every country we visited in Europe, seeming only to grow shorter as we climbed up to the Low Countries.

Belgium
Once we dropped off the car in Brussels, and Jan made his way out of the one-way dead-end at the airport, we were back on the trains. A much more relaxing and Earth-friendly way to travel, I would try to take more trains when we get back to Europe.

Back to New York
I've already double blogged this leg of the journey, so I don't have much to add. This British Airways flight was booked through Qantas on miles, so we had a very long layover. The flight itself was pleasant, and would have to take first place in comparison to other airlines of the trip. It was a pleasant and comfortable way to spend a few hours thinking about the incredible trip we had just finished.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Wild Queensland

What a crazy place! Aside from the leeches we saw on Mt Sorrow, and pulled, writhing and bleeding from our ankles, we saw deadly spiders, cassowaries, walking fish, crabs and frogs. That was a bit of a sloppy sentence: the adjective "deadly" applies only to spiders, cassowaries and some frogs. For starters, please observe this cassowary:


This cassowary, a remnant from the Jurassic or Bodacious Period, walks around the beach and rainforest with raptor-like talons and a I-Just-Woke-Up-On-The-Wrong-Side-Of-The-Bed attitude. The bird wandered into a clueless couple of tourists who turned their back on the big guy. S/he charged the female and lunged with a talon out, but missed.

Walking fish are far less deadly. These dudes hold water while on land much like sea turtles hold air under water.

Lots of fantastic spiders peppered the area just above our heads, but they were not a problem. Actually, most things in this rainforest don't bother humans at all. We did an excellent walking tour at night, during which we were told about native flora and fauna... not surprisingly, much of the native plants and animals are being killed by introduced animals such as the feral pig and the cane toad. Our guide mentioned that he used to like shooting feral pigs with a machine gun and beating cane toads with golf clubs... new humanitarian movements have stopped him.

The Great Barrier Reef

For three days and two nights, Dana and I stayed on a boat cruising around the Great Barrier Reef. This was a scuba diving trip run by Pro Dive out of Cairns. Details below.

On the boat we had 33 divers or divers in training, 1 cook, 1 dive planner, 3 dive instructors, 1 skipper and 1 Gilligan. You would think that the boat would be crowded, but there was an incredible use of space. We were in one of only two double bed rooms, while all of the others were bunks, but the boat never seemed crowded. The top level had an outdoor area, some rooms, and the skipper's room. The main level had the dive equipment out back, the mess hall with kitchen and tables, and more rooms. There were more rooms below deck as well. Exhaustion from the number of dives we did may have prevented anyone from getting too stir-crazy.

We did 11 dives in three days, two of which were night dives. We saw sea turtles, sharks, jellyfish, moray eels, sea snakes, giant clams, stingrays, prawns, painted crayfish, hermit crabs, shovel-nosed rays, and twice as much coral and fish life as you could see in Finding Nemo. Most dives lasted between 30-40 minutes, but the wet suit and gear set-up was what was tiring. We slept well on that rocky boat. Speaking of rocky, the ride out to the reef hit some sea-legless folks hard. Over half of the boat was spewing over the side for a few hours. Dana and I kept it together, luckily.

The food on this trip was incredible. No none was ever hungry, and the quality was superb. Craig added his own special spices to the menu... you'd be very surprised how good food cooked on a boat for 40+ people three days out at sea can taste. The meals were not the only well-run part of the trip. Tristan, our dive planner, clearly outlined our dives, pointed out what was worth seeing and made sure everyone knew what was happening. Don't be thrown by the photo. The skipper, Fozzie, filled us in on yachting stories during the day and challenged us to broomstick competitions at night. The videos of me and dana will explain... a bit.

While the days and nights (and mornings) were exhausting, it was well worth it. Not everyone did the full 11 dives, but we're both glad we did. Even the night dives were worth the struggle. Dana was nervous the first night, jumping into a black sea when no light is visible except the moon and stars... and the first thing we see is a 3 meter (9 foot) shovel-nosed ray on the ocean floor. The little eyes poking out from the shrimp on the rocks were more calming, but the next night was even more exciting. As we geared up, bread was thrown of the back of the boat, sending many large fish into a feeding frenzy and also setting off a number of white tip reef sharks. The sharks were circling, with their fins piercing the surface of the water, as we jumped into the ocean. Of course none of them bothered us. We bothered everything instead.


The Great Barrier Reef Photos

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Dwarbi's Roof - Poolside Extravaganza

If you've come to my blog recently and noticed a lack of updates, I've just made up for it. Dana and I are enjoying the sun and sand in Palm Cove, Queensland, at the moment, and I finally had a chance to hook up my laptop. While I have yet to organise the photos for, or write about, the cassowary attack in the Daintree, our diving experiences on the Great Barrier Reef, or general impressions of Far North Queensland, I can offer you a few delectable bits of farewell goodies as well as some decent rainforest stories. They are all below, but here are links, for your convenience:
Work Farewell
A Long Farewell Weekend
Writing in Cape Tribulation
Mt Sorrow

We're heading off to Singapore in the morning, then on to Europe... I'll try not to get too far behind.

Mt Sorrow

The name of the hike should have tipped us off, but we decided to tackle it anyway. We were told that this is the only true hike in the area, since the rest are strips of boardwalk to accommodate the oldies. Surely the path would be clearly marked off the road, I thought, but it took several drive-bys before we picked out the wooden sign next to the barely-beaten path. We narrowed down its location after asking a weathered park ranger for help. I would guess his name to be Bazza MacGilligan or something of that lot.

Dana and I are pretty fit, despite our decadent farewell month, so we were confident we could handle the trail marked "Extremely Difficult, Above Average Fitness Only". Our footwear seemed to be good enough, me in my hiking/walking shoes, and Dana in her runners. We also brought plenty of water and fruit. I was a bit overloaded with camera equipment, however. The 7 kilometer hike was supposed to take 7 hours return. The view at the top of Mount Sorrow is supposed to be breathtaking, holding views of Cape Tribulation, the beaches and the Great Barrier Reef.

Our trek began at 9:30AM, observing the rule that one must not set off after 10AM lest he may turn into a macadamia nut. The hike immediately proved to be much more difficult than either one of us expected. Not more difficult than we thought we could handle, mind you. The plants in Daintree National Park are much more aggressive towards human passers-by than I am used to. I was expecting the multitude of spider webs that wrapped my face every minute, on the minute, but the barbed vines and razor-edged ferns surprised me. At one point, when I was hopping over a log, I think I was completely suspended by the plants... the thorns and hooks had taken hold of my shirt, backpack and even my shorts. Dana cut me loose with a machete.

There were warnings at the start of the hike, informing bushwalkers about cassowaries. Cassowaries are very large, flightless, colourful birds. They are about the size of an ostrich, but they have been known to get aggressive and attack people. Their claws could cut you open like something out of Jurassic Park. Actually, these animals date back MILLIONS OF YEARS. Cassowaries are generally shy, but if they think you're getting near their nest or threatening their chicks, they will charge. Dana was hoping that we would not see a cassowary on our outing, nor did she want to see any of the many feral pigs that inhabit the area. The pigs were introduced and do quite well in the rainforest, unfortunately for the rainforest. Besides eating lots of food that native animals rely on, as well as some of the animals themselves, they also root around in soil that's not meant for rooting, causing entire areas to be washed away when it rains. We passed about 20 of these wallow pits during the hikes.

It was much to our dismay that the adversaries for the trip were neither cassowaries nor pigs, but something much, much smaller: leeches. Just 20 minutes into the walk, my clothes were soaked through, but that's to be expected. Little scratches and nicks from the strangling figs and TAKEFOREVEREMS were not a worry. A fair bit of mud had somehow worked its way up my legs... so what? About an hour and a half into the adventure, I wiped a bit of dirt and branches off of my ankle, only to find that one piece of branch wouldn't budge. I plucked it off and it started wrangling in my fingers as blood trickled down into my sock. I shouted to Dana to check her ankles, and we each removed about 15-20 from ourselves and each other. Few had successfully taken hold and begun chewing away, but the experience of picking so many from your shoes, ankles, legs, and then fingers, arms and hands as they cling to you.... is a bit unnerving.

Dana decided to stick it out and continue up the mountain. We had made it quite far, and we guessed that the leeches had jumped on us at one point when we stopped for too long. For another half an hour we continued, picking at them every third step or so, cursing and trying to flick them off our fingers as the searched for a place to grab hold. This was difficult given the slipperiness and steepness of the terrain. Finally we decided to head back... only to meet two other climbers (the only other two on the path the entire day) who convinced us to continue on. We did. The path grew wetter, steeper and more leechful, if that's a word. It was after about another half an hour that we decided safety had to come first. Did we want to be those tourists who head back before reaching the top, or did we want to be those tourists who lose their footing and break their necks? The question wasn't as easy for me as it was for Dana, but we agreed to turn around.

On the way back, we passed a sign that we missed on the way up. We discovered that we were about 100-200 meters from the end before we turned around. We had nearly two more hours of downhill leech battling to contemplate that. It hard to explain the feeling of seeing a leech disappear into the eye-hole of your shoe. There isn't much to feel, physically, but it is not a pleasant emotional experience. Towards the bottom of the mountain, I would see the occasional leech make his way back out of my shoe, abandoning ship before I reached the car. That site made me feel more confident about our decision: even the leech bailed. And yes, I did remove one from under my shorts.


Leech-free photos here. There was a long stretch when I didn't bother with my camera.

Writing in Cape Tribulation


Sitting here outside of our cabin in the rain-forest near Cape Tribulation, I'm listening to a multitude of bird calls I have never heard before, distracted by the large number of bush turkeys chasing each-other around, and then startled by a spider that descends directly in front of my face. The kookaburras found that amusing.

We Found Internet Access!

Apologies for the lack of blog entries, but it's been extremely difficult to find Internet access. Since we've spent nearly all of the trip so far in the rainforest or far out at sea, it's understandable. Believe it or not, both of these locations - The Daintree/Cape Tribulation & The Great Barrier Reef - have pretty solid radio stations.

Now we are relaxing poolside in Palm Cove and enjoying our last day in Australia. I'm a few minutes away from a cocktail and will be sending through a barrage of blog entries