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Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Saturday, November 17, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - It's Over (Links To All Posts)

That's it. The trip has been over for quite some time now. All of the photos have been posted, and some of the stories have been written down here. Below are links to all Big Trip blog entries and photos from the journey. If you're planning a trip to any of these countries, I hope my blog will help you. If you have any questions about accommodation in any of these locations, please leave a comment and I will get back to you. It's just a bit to much to do an entry on all the wonderful and mediocre places we stayed. I will say that our most uncomfortable nights were in 1-star and a 4-star hotels (three nights in the former, one night in the latter) while the 2-star and 3-star joints were fantastic, almost without exception.

That's it for the Big Trip. 98 links below.

Planning
The Big Trip
Singapore Locked In
Queensland Locked In
(Then Dana told me it would be overkill to write before the trip even started.)

Queensland, Australia
We Found Internet Access
Writing in Cape Tribulation
Mt Sorrow
*Cape Tribulation photos
Poolside Extravaganza
The Great Barrier Reef
*Great Barrier Reef photos
Wild Queensland
Found: Previously Unblogged Photos from Queensland
*Queensland photos

Sydney Airport
Aiport photos

Singapore
We Sail Tonight For Singapore
*Singapore photos
Whatever?

Italy
Rest in Tuscany
La Guerra a Firenze (The War in Florence)
Roma
*Rome photos
Posting from Florence
Sleeper
Cortona
*Cortona photos
Siena
*Siena photos
Assisi
*Assisi photos
Montepulciano
*Montepulciano photos
Firenze!!! (Florence.)
*Florence photos
The Villa in Cortona
*Villa photos

France
Nice Post
The Greatest Toilet in the World
Yes, It's Nice
*Nice photos
Monaco & Monte Carlo
*Monaco & Monte Carlo photos
Avignon - Dance!
*Avignon photos
Bridges & Cheese
*Roquefort photos
A Stop in Orange
*Orange photos
Lyon, Lyons, Lions
*Lyons photos
Lyons at Night
*Lyons at Night photos
Lunch in Annecy
*Annecy photos

Switzerland
Greetings from Switzerland
Montreux & Château de Chillon
*Montreux photos
I'm Going to Beat You With a Pig Bladder!
*Interlaken photos

Germany
Getting Slap Happy
German Sing-A-Long
A Week and a Half Left
My Last Night as a 20-Something
My Special Day
Deine Karte Bitte Nehmen!
Bier Hall in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
*Garmisch-Partenkirchen photos
Videos from Gasthof Fraundorfer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Munich/München
*Munich/München photos
Bamberg, Germany
*Bamberg photos
Stop at the Würzburg Hospital/Winery
*Würzburg photos
Koblenz - Bikes, Castles & Fickle Weather
*Koblenz photos
Saddle Up, Boys, It's Time for Düsseldorf!
*Düsseldorf photos
Farewell Germany, Heading to Belgium!
*Aachen photos

Belgium
Bye Bye Holiday
In Leuven with Jan & Maxine
*Leuven photos
Big Time in Brussels
*Brussels photos
Brussels Grote Markt/Grand Place
*Grote Markt photos
In Bruges/In Brugge
*Brugge photos
Antwerpen
*Antwerpen photos
The Big Trip Ends

Appendices
The Big Trip Ends (OG style)
Big Trip Photos Mapped
Pigeons Rule the World
*Pigeons Ruling the World photos
Faces in Stone (an other matter)
*Faces in Stone photos
The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Friday, November 16, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Australia
The food in the tropics of Queensland surprised us. This was the one destination where I did not expect to find fantastic meals and drink - and there it was, right in front of me! The dishes we enjoyed in Cape Tribulation were mostly "New Australian" takes on traditional Australian fare, like barramundi. The wine lists were solid, but the beer was lacking outside of Cairns, where we found a better than average hole in the wall at which to avoid returning to our hostel. Similarly, the food we ate at the Great Barrier Reef on the live aboard scuba dive boat operated by Prodive was also wonderful. I did try to tackle the cassowary to taste, but no luck.

Singapore
Singapore was a culinary destination for us, even before reading Calvin Trillin's article "Three Chopsticks" in the most recent food issue of The New Yorker. We quickly learned that plenty of good, inexpensive food can be found in markets, like shopping malls. Dana and I tried everything we could, but we left with dozens of intriguing menu options untasted. Some day we will get back to eat as much as humanly possible.

Italy
I don't usually seek out Italian food and, honestly, I think the cuisine is too heavily relied upon by those nervous to branch out. The freshness and simplicity of the food we ate in Italy was astounding. I could not get enough. I've never eaten so much pasta in my life! Well, since college, at least. We learned a lot of the essentials in Assisi during a cooking class. From our eating experiences in Italy, the two ingredients I will remember most will be the truffles I ate throughout the peninsula and the chicken neck I ate in Florence. Most Italian restaurants won't risk their reputation by serving a bad house wine, so the appropriate liquid accompaniment to these fantastic plates were both tasty and inexpensive... €5 for a liter at one restaurant in Rome. Of course, we had even better wines in Montepulciano.

France
Of course France is known for its culinary delights, and we sought out one of my favorite cheeses, made in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Lyons had plenty to offer, including the famous Le Sud, but our best meal in the country was lunch on our last day, in Annecy. Here we dined on the traditional alpine meal of raclette cheese melted over bread, potatoes and other equally healthy foodstuffs.
"What about the wine?"
Oh yes, the wine was great, but we didn't venture into too many wine regions and did not get to do any tasting. I can say that the French wine was much better than the French beer.

Switzerland
Switzerland offered some very good food, but it was by far the worst value during our trip. The Swiss franc had about the same exchange rate as the Australian dollar, but the costs were much higher. What's more, when we ordered a bottle of wine, it was 500ml instead of the usual 750ml. The travel books and Web sites mentioned Switzerland's secret: fantastic wine that was not exported. The impression was that these wines are SO GOOD that the Swiss don't want to share it with the rest of the world. Well, we tried a few, and they can keep it. The vineyards do make for beautiful scenery.

Germany
These Germans are great eaters and great drinkers! Large portions of flavorful meals served with expectedly good beer or unexpectedly good wine. Sure, I knew they make some great riesling and gewurztraminer, but the range was broader than that. Würzburg surprised us with their winery/hospital. With beer specialties such as altbier and rauchbier, Düsseldorf from and Bamberg, respectively, and impressive bier halls across the land, it's a true beer destination. Dana and I were even a bit overwhelmed early on, and we picked up sushi for lunch in München. Heresy!

Belgium
But we saved the best for last, didn't we? There's not much I can add on the quality of Belgian beer that I have not already posted, but I will reemphasize the quality of the food, in terms of taste, presentation and service. I can think of no other place where people genuinely seem to care so much about your culinary experience. Not because they want to impress you, but because they want you enjoy your meal. Then again, I guess they really have to do that if they're going to serve you horse.

Monday, October 29, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Getting Around

We made our roundabout way from Sydney to New York on a combinations of planes, trains, boats and cars. Frequent flier miles covered a fair bit of it. Multiple treks between New York & Sydney had its perks!

Queensland, Australia
We flew from Sydney to Cairns on Jetstar. Since it was a domestic flight on a budget airline, the baggage limit was 20kg (44lbs) per person. We had packed our luggage based on international travel, since we were, after all, flying back to New York. We packed those bags to the max, full of clothes to last us for 50 days of traveling in a wide variety of climates, plus the stuff we forgot to ship back to the States. According to Jetstar policy, we were fined for each kilogram extra, which amounted to roughly the cost of two Qantas flights to Singapore. Slight exaggeration, but whatever we saved was canceled out. Oh well. We were still in a daze from our fun-filled farewells, so we hardly noticed the absence of entertainment, food and leg space. When Dana and I were confronted with the huge fine from Jetstar at 6AM the day we were leaving Sydney, still reeling from saying farewell to dozens of great friends, we reminded ourselves that there would likely be many more instances of unexpected charges, and we would have to roll with it. Thankfully, it started and ended with Jetstar.

The car we used in Cairns was obtained on miles from Velocity, accumulated by Dana's numerous Virgin Blue flights to Melbourne. There were not many hidden fees for the Europcar we picked up at the airport in Cairns, and it was a piece of cake. That little white car fared better than I did in the Queensland rain forest.

Sydney
There was a scheduled layover in Sydney during our flight from Cairns to Singapore: 7 hours. But that was OK, because we booked the flight on Qantas with miles. Unfortunately, the flight was delayed 3 hours, and we were not allowed to leave the airport for security reasons. Sydney Airport has shockingly little to do and very few places to eat. Dana and I passed the time watching movies on the iBook and reading. I also squeezed a meal voucher from Qantas, which we used to purchase a salad and a bottle of wine. For about ten hours, we sat in that airport cafe and watched the sun and clouds play above the beautiful city that we were leaving. Blades of Glory was showing on the flight, so that was funny.

Singapore
Qantas was decent, as usual, but we were really looking forward to the flight from Singapore to Rome: Emirates. I had booked the flight through Expedia, and we actually had to pay for it, so we couldn't wait to experience this airline that everyone said was so good. It Sucked. That wasn't a typo, it sucked with a capital S. The seats were tiny, the food was absurdly small, and the mediocre films being shown were worse than they would have been on a Qantas flight. And the flight attendants were rude. Worse than the in-flight experience was the pre-flight experience. Due to our delay on arriving in Singapore, we did not get to our hotel until 2AM. Our Emirates flight was set to depart the following morning at 3AM. The visit was an enjoyable whirlwind, like riding on Space Mountain for 24 hours, but getting back to the airport was like getting back in line for another ride when you really have to vomit. Security screening led us into a tiny waiting room about half the size of the plane. As we sat, drained from the hectic stopover, we were forced to watch Ellen Degeneres dance in a raincoat to a Justin Timberlake song as a bunch of uncoordinated audience members danced along, wearing much cheaper raincoats. Plastic garbage bags, really. The flight was delayed, but they didn't announce that until 4AM, after I had confronted the service desk. We were freed to urinate before being cattle-prodded back into the holding pen.

Dubai
The layover in Dubai was a feast for the senses. We landed at about 6AM local time. A shuttle bus picked us up at the plane and drove us past the airport expansion to our arrival gate. It took about 25 minutes. Someday soon, this will be the biggest and busiest airport in the world... or is it already? It seemed to be, with the massive shopping centers built into this timeless alcove. At 6:45AM Dubai time I was being offered samples of liquor. Instead I bought the most expensive face lotion I have ever purchased. I still have plenty left. I'm savoring it.

Italy
Our first European train experience was in Italy. I understand why they fired Mussolini, but do they keep the trains running poorly just to spite his ghost? I mean, they hung him upside-down and skinned him, isn't that enough? Do they need to make innocent American tourists suffer? Perhaps. Perhaps. Anyway, we were at Rome Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci di Fiumicino), waiting for the Leonardo Express, for over 20 minutes before it arrived. It arrived empty, so I'm not sure where the delay could have been. Next, only half of the doors opened, and they quickly began closing on the humans boarding. Here's a train that is meant to carry passengers from an airport that only has narrow doorways and steep steps up into the carriage. I lost a thong, or flip-flop, climbing in. Those behind me watched the piece of rubber footwear do a Slinky act down the steps and onto the tracks before continuing their rush on board. That thong meant a lot to me, and I mourn its early separation. It was replaced by a pair of Italian leather sandals in Florence, but I still have the lost shoe's twin. I shall keep it forever.

For us, Italy was all about the train. We had been warned about driving in Italy, and I thought being a pedestrian was enough of a risk. We caught the train from Rome to Cortona, but, of course, we got off at the wrong Cortona stop. Cortona-Camucia, not Cortona-Perugia! Dummy! We hitched rides around Tuscany, noting the frustration in our American family members that each intersection merely tells you which direction to turn for the next intersection. Driving in Italy seemed to be like finding your way through a cornfield maze, at best, like playing QBert at worst.

France
We took a sleeper car from Florenze to Nice, as has been blog-noted. That was a great experience. More details here.

In Nice, we picked up our Peugeot, the car that would take us north to Belgium. A fella on VirtualTourist clued me into their Open Europe plan. It was essentially a leased car, which provided huge savings over car rental. If you are an American citizen and need a car for an extended period of time, check it out. The car didn't give us any problems, but 24 hour roadside assistance was included. The only problem was that they could not grasp the fact that I was not flying to Nice. In countless emails and phone conversations, I stressed that I would be arriving by try and will be traveling for weeks before I get there. For weeks before I got there, their office made frantic attempts to get in touch with me to find out what airline and flight I would be arriving on. Still, everyone I dealt with was helpful and friendly, even if a little deaf.

Now we got to drive! Our first European road trip was to Monaco & Monte Carlo. I still don't get which which one is which, but it was a bit of a let-down. The drive was nice! Speaking of nice, it was tough to find a place to park in Nice. Things got a lot easier once we left the Mediterranean Coast. French people are anal drivers, though. On a three lane highway, with no other vehicles in sight, I was in the middle lane when a car came up behind me in the right lane. He crossed to the middle lane, tailgated for a moment, then flashed me. I moved to the right, he passed me, and moved back into the right lane. I gave a puzzled look that he could not see.

Our biggest road trip was in France, when we drove from Avignon to Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Our decision to take small roads caused us to spend a good ten hours in the car, but the views were amazing. Most of the time we were behind a truck, but left and right were gorgeous.

Elsewhere
Those sticklers for independence in Switzerland charged 30 Swiss francs to drive in their country, but besides that, driving was free. Gas wasn't cheap, but not a lot of tolls. Somehow we made our way around without a map in countries where we could not speak the language. I developed a special skill that enabled me to magically find every hotel without getting lost. When that failed, I would run into the closest hotel and ask for directions to the hotel we were staying at. Those guys love to use the little maps they keep behind the counter.

Driving gave us some freedom to see some of the smaller towns and less-traveled roads. Avoiding the highways in Switzerland enabled us to see far more of the countryside, but probably doubled the travel time. As we made our way north, it was interesting to see the change in crops, such as large expanses of vineyards giving way to hop fields. Sunflowers stood like waiting armies in every country we visited in Europe, seeming only to grow shorter as we climbed up to the Low Countries.

Belgium
Once we dropped off the car in Brussels, and Jan made his way out of the one-way dead-end at the airport, we were back on the trains. A much more relaxing and Earth-friendly way to travel, I would try to take more trains when we get back to Europe.

Back to New York
I've already double blogged this leg of the journey, so I don't have much to add. This British Airways flight was booked through Qantas on miles, so we had a very long layover. The flight itself was pleasant, and would have to take first place in comparison to other airlines of the trip. It was a pleasant and comfortable way to spend a few hours thinking about the incredible trip we had just finished.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Big Trip Photos Mapped

Google offers a free photo-sharing application called Picasa. I don't use it for much, but I created an account and had all the photos I had added to blog posts automatically added to an album. The result was an eclectic mix of images ranging from coneheads and John Howard to rubber duckies and Sam Coates. Pretty neat. But next I dragged some of the photos to a map, dropping them on the city where the photos was taken. Very cool. Now you can roughly follow the path we took from Rome to Brussels. I fear this may expose my secret identity... but it's worth it. Check out the photo map here.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

The Villa in Cortona

Dana's mum rented a villa just outside Cortona so that some loved ones could join her to celebrate her 19th birthday. I was one of those loved ones, and this is my story.

When I found out how many people had been invited to stay at the old farmhouse, I was sure that Dana and I would get a cot, at best. At worst, some patches of hay under a couple of dairy cows. How pleasantly surprised were we when we had our own bedroom, complete with a private bath! And a bidet! Neither Dana nor I had the pleasure of using the plumbing wonder, but Tom did when he neglected to check for an adequate supply of toilet paper while using our station late one night.

The villa was perfect for a large group: adequate parking, plenty of rooms, a pool, laundry and easy access to the historic cities of Tuscany and Umbria. While the food in those historic cities was great, one of the best meals we had was served in-house. Arlene and Ann hired a chef to come to the house to cook dinner for the actual birthday celebration. The night was great, and the only person who had to drive home was the chef!

Check it out.

(Yes, there was one scorpion on a wall one night.)

Thursday, August 09, 2007

Firenze!!! (Florence.)

Florence was our last stop in Italy. Briefly the capital of Italy, and home to countless artists, the city is full of sites to see. Consequently, this is the largest gallery of photos I've posted of the Big Trip!

I won't try to summarize the history of Florence. I'm not even going to tell you where to go if you decide to take a trip there. OK, OK, I'll do a little of both by explaining what we did while we were there.

Our visit began with lunch at Cibreo, where I had stuffed chicken neck for the first time ever! It's a traditional Florentine dish that comes with the head still attached. Fortunately for me, no other restaurant which we ate at in Florence had a dish on their menu that I had not had.

While traveling through other parts of Tuscany, we often read about Florence and even saw the impact it had on the history of other cities. Finally we were in the city that Montepulciano sided with against Siena. We visited Florence's spectacular Duomo, the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, which was finished, unlike Siena's Duomo, the expansion of which was halted after Florence trounced them. Like just about every church in Italy, you have to pay to get into the Duomo in Florence, but if you pay to climb the dome (separate fee and separate entrance from the main doors), then you can see the inside of the church, including the frightening pointy-penis-filled Last Judgement, on your way up to the top. Now that's a holy bargain! We also climbed to the top of the Campanile (bell tower) to get just about the same view of the Florence as we had from the tom of the Duomo, except with the Duomo in it.

Florence is like an outdoor museum, which is is great for me since I love statues. Dana was a bit disappointed, though... all of the paintings that they left outside were wet and covered in pigeon poop. Statues are rain-and-pigeon-resistant. In the Loggia dei Lanzi, an outdoor gallery in the Piazza della Signoria, I found some of the most incredible sculptures I have seen. Some of these were replicas, such as Michaelangelo's David, but others were the originals.Having artwork out in the open air has always been risky. It used to be a known hazard that when when, say, Siena sacked Florence, they would destroy the statue that had been made to commemorate the Florentine sacking of Siena. These days, statues out in the open are subject to destruction by common tourists, such as when three brain surgeons climbed the Fountain of Neptune in 2005, snapping off the god's hand and bending his phallic trident. Ouch. I think the Italians should get in on the game and commission a series of statues dedicated to the scorning of tourists. For example, a marble statue of a local running away with a tourist's camera, or a police officer intentionally giving bad direction to a family with four small children, in bronze.

During lunch at the Uffizi, I made a startling discovery: Italian birds are vicious! As I was taking a bite of my sandwich, a sparrow flew over and took a bite right out of it. He kept coming back as I tried to finish my meat and cheese on bread, so I had to swat wildly at the air and keep chewing to a minimum. I won. He ate no more.

The morning after our second night, Dana and I packed up our things and prepared to store our things for storage until our night train departed for Nice. I double-checked the train time and noticed something odd about the date of departure... it was the next day! Our host spoke nothing but Italian - the quick kind, too - but I managed to ask her if we could stay another night. I understood that she would check the books and let me know. When we did get back to me, she confirmed that I was asking to stay a forth night... I had already booked three nights! We unpacked and enjoyed an unscheduled day in Florence. The real drama would be the following night.

With our new day, we checked out the Boboli Gardens and the wonderful sculptures and pigeons that adorn it. I was a bit disappointed that we didn't book that Segue tour, but our one last great Italian meal was thoroughly enjoyed. Our hotel suited us for one more night. Florence isn't inexpensive, so we chose location over luxury. This was the site of the mosquito war. An extra star may have given us a private bathroom, but what we needed was air-conditioning.

Four pages of photos of Florence! See them all! Seriously, there are four pages, the Ponte Vecchio, plenty of fountains, funny little Italian cars, Dana and me sitting on long-female-legged barstools in an Australian pub.

Monday, August 06, 2007

Montepulciano, Italy

Montepulciano was the last small Tuscan city we visited. With its old city walls, tall Communal Palace and little guy poised to hit a bell, it is the quintessential Tuscan city. This town was also founded by the Etruscans, and ancient wine caves snake through the hill underneath. The wine of the surrounding region, especially the Vino Nobile, is worth multiple tastings. We walked around the city and had lunch at La Grotta, across from San Biagio, before hoofing it to the center of town for some sight-seeing.

View it here in high definition.

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Cooking in Assisi

In Assisi, Umbria, Susette treated us to an incredible experience: an Italian cooking class. Letizia Mattiacci was our guide and instructor. To begin the lesson, we gathered in a small specialty food store. As we filled our stomachs, Letizia filled our brains with knowledge about olive oil, Umbrian meats and cheeses (the wild boar sausage and pecorino cheese were especially memorable), truffles and balsamic vinegar. The production and usage of these foods are part of the area's tradition... I can't think of a better day than learning about the history and culture of a region while eating a byproduct of it! Next we drove up to the old farmhouse overlooking Assisi. The building maintained its rustic feel while upgrading the amenities required, such as the new kitchen. The property is also a B&B, which is also run by Letizia and her husband. It was a beautiful spot and definitely worth looking into if you ever plan to visit Umbria. In the kitchen we learned how to make two kinds of pasta, from the dough to the sauce, which we then enjoyed as a massive lunch overlooking the countryside. The lizards, bees, butterflies and ladybugs kept us entertained while we ate.

For a "photo-real" experience, click here.

Thursday, August 02, 2007

Siena, Italy

Ah, Siena: The land of moving statues, lactating she-wolves and thirsty pigeons!

Moving Statues
While staying in Cortona, we made a day trip to the Tuscan city of Siena. Miles, the youngest of our Cortonian Cortonese Cortite... of our crew from Cortona, certainly appreciated the number of shiny moving statues the city boasts. That foreign exchange program they set up has really shown tremendous results. (N.B. the statues don't actually move unless you give them some money, and if you take a photo, be prepared to give extra money or they will gang up on you as agreed in the Moving Statue Concord of 1927.)

Lactating She-Wolves
Like Cortona, Siena was first settled by the Etruscans and placed on top of a hill. My guess is that they settled it on top of the hill straight away, rather than settling it first and moving it uphill later on. Either way, it was settled by Senius, son of Remus. Remus was the brother of Romulus, Rome's namesake and the first of the line of Roman kings. Romulus and Remus were the sons of Mars and a human mother. According to legend, they were raised by a she-wolf, and so statues of Romulus and Remus under the teets of the she-wolf were erected in Rome. When Senius and he brother, Aschius, left Rome, they stole one of these statues from the Apollo Temple. So while similar statues can be found in Rome and represent Romulus and Remus, the statues in Siena represent Senius and Aschius. (Sounds to me like they kind of ripped off some tradition from Rome.) When they fled Rome, one brother was on a white horse, and the other a black one. This is where the shield and colors of the city come from. (That sounds original at least.) I'm not sure if Aschius then had two sons who, in turn, stole a statue from a temple in Siena and ran off to settle their own copy-cat city... I'll have to look into it. The whole black & white thing, though, these Siena folk stuck with it: they carted in special stones to build the cathedral in black and white.

Thirsty Pigeons
Pigeons can be found in great abundance in nearly every city in Europe (except maybe Germany, but we'll discuss the reasons for this later in the Big Trip). In prior travel, I've noted that Parisian pigeons are especially fat and that New York pigeons rarely have all of their limbs and eyes... well, the pigeons of Siena are living the good life. Judging by their appearance, they seem to eat as much as the pigeons in Paris while going to a New York Sports Club without loosing a foot to a taxi. Let's just say that they are svelte. We came across a group of especially active pigeons roaming around a statue of a dog of some kind. These pigeons seemed to rule the fountain as well as the coup. Then, as we were leaving the city, we noticed a man in a suit, carrying a pigeon by its wings. I'm not sure if he owned the pigeon, recently hunted the pigeon or is guardian of the dog statue that the thirsty pigeons desecrated. Whatever the case may be, he sent a small message to the pigeons of Siena that while pigeons may land on our statues and shit on our heads, we have opposable thumbs.

Loads of beautiful photos of Siena here.

Friday, July 27, 2007

Cortona, Italy

Time to travel back in time to the time when we were traveling: Day 13 of the Big Trip. Dana and I have left Sydney and been to Cape Tribulation, the Great Barrier Reef and Palm Cove, all in Queensland, Australia, before popping by Singapore on the way to Rome. A short train ride took us north from Rome to the Cortona/Terontola train stop. One more stop on the train would have brought us to Cortona/Camucia, where Dana's mother was waiting for us. Ah well, Susette and Marvin got to see a bit more of the Tuscan countryside following the train tracks to us. Thankfully they had the good sense to drive on the road, and not the tracks themselves.

We stayed with much of Dana's family, soon to be my family too, in a villa on the hill on which Cortona stands. There will be more on the villa later, but here's a bit about our experience in the city of Cortona...

We drove up to the old city for dinner one night. La Bucaccia was an excellent choice. I'm not sure what an old, authentic Tuscan restaurant should be like, but this certainly seemed to set the standard for all the supposedly authentic Tuscan restaurants I visit in the future. The owner, Romano, took great care of us and served us his recommendations. This is handy when you can't read the menu. His daughter, Francesca, served the wine. The food was excellent, as was the entire experience.

Dana and I went back up later in the week to see some of the sites. Since it's built on a hill, like many Tuscan cities, you can be sure you'll get a good workout. We started at the town center - Piazza della Repubblica. The city seemed to be nearing completion of some revitalization construction... digging up the roads and putting in the proper cobblestones. I'm sure they were authentic medieval cobblestones. The streets of Cortona are very narrow and extremely steep, and I constantly found myself daydreaming about how much fun it would be to have a bowling ball... or even a slinky.


We started off with a visit to the Museum of the Etruscan Academy to study the ancient artifacts there and learn about the history of the city. The Etruscans brought Greek traditions and styles to Italy, which had a profound impact on the Roman Empire. The city saw building and revitalizations during the Etruscan, Roman and Medieval times. This is most evident in the Medici Fortress, at the highest point of the city. The museum displays archaeological findings as well as information about important historical sites just outside Cortona. When we arrived we were notified that the museum was still under construction... we spent hours there and can't imagine what else they could add.

With the swallows ceaselessly circling overhead, we hiked up the city, stopping by nearly every church and corner shrine. I struggled to get some decent photos of the inside of the churches... it can be a challenge using only natural light. The best views were from the Medici Fortress, from which we could look down on the city and see as far as Lake Trasimeno. The Fort was built on preexisting foundations in 1556, by Cosmo Kramer. His name might have actually been Cosimo I.

After all the uphill walking it was a treat to go downhill... even if it was 3 kilometers back to the house.

All photos from Cortona here.

Saturday, July 07, 2007

Pictures from Rome

We have free high speed at the hotel here in Munich, so I finally got around to putting up the photos from Rome. Check them out.

I'm still way behind... Italy was three countries ago!

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Sleeper

Transportation from Florence, Italy, to Nice, France, was in a sleeper carriage on a train. We arrived at the station, Campo di Maria, with plenty of time to spare, so we popped into the cafe across the road. The train was due to arrive at 23:20 (11:20) and depart 5 minutes later. A quick check on the board at 23:10 set us across the tracks to platform 6. So far everything was going smoothly. I was waiting for EN366 to Ventimiglia to come in, so when CM1233 to Montaciano or Mesopotamia or Montezuma, whatever it was, came in just 2 minutes before our train was due, I was alarmed.

We found another board on platform 6 that said our train had just been moved to platform 5, across the tracks. Now, there are not overpasses or underpasses to cross the tracks, but at one end of the very, very long platform, the ground is leveled off for a safe crossing. As I glanced in that direction, I could see the two lights of an approaching train. We booked it, our wheeled luggage picking up air behind us. We crossed the tracks and continued down to platform 5. I checked my pocket for reassurance...

I should tell you that the tickets we purchased were paper and not replaceable. If lost or stolen, then the loss would be ours. Understanding the risk, I kept them in a very safe place... until we were set to board the train on platform 6. At that point, I transferred them from my backpack, next to my laptop, to my front pocket.

... so I checked my pocket, and I couldn't find the reassurance... or the tickets. I knew immediately that they must have fallen out as we were running to platform 5. I left the bags with Dana, rounded the track crossing, eyeing the approaching lights, and sprinted down platform 6. Luckily the tickets were in plain view in the ground. I nabbed them and turned around. It's the fastest I've ever ran... I felt like Apollo. As the train was a few feet in front of the crossing, I leaped over the rails and onto platform 5. We made the train. The train was a few minutes late. The train that was coming into the station actually went to track 8, so it was behind me as I crossed.

On our Big Trip, we have have overnight excursions on planes and boats, but this was, by far, the most interesting and soothing. Our cabin was understandably snug, but it had its own sink and urinal! At least I think (hope) that was a urinal. We slept in bunk beds, which was perfect for Dana because it made it extremely hard for me to flop my snoring face on her forehead. During the night, however, I somehow I managed to open the curtain repeatedly with my foot, much to the consternation of the lady on the top bunk (Dana). Before nap time we toasted with a really nice eight euro bottle of red. Dana wore half of it, but seeing as how we need to cut back on luggage, this wasn't such a bad thing.

Sleep on the train was wonderful when we were moving. It was silent but for the rumbling over the rails. It gently rocked back and forth, so head to toe we moved. The cabin was cool, but it did get a bit warm during extended stays in some of the towns, such as Genova and Ventimiglia, during which the air-conditioning ceased.

Ventimiglia was also the last name of my Spanish teacher during my first year in high school. On my first day I raised my hand and said that the bookstore had sold out of one of the textbooks, so I didn't have mine. She said she understood, but then told me to sit in the front row, in the middle column, so she could keep an eye on me. She knew immediately that I was "one of those". She was brutal but one of the best teachers I have ever had. If anyone misspelled a word on homework, he had to write the word, in a sentence in Spanish, 100 times. She took a liking to me soon after and didn't even claim to notice that my misspelled punishments were written with five pens taped together (so I only had to write them 20 times).

Apologies for the tangent, but I think it was warranted. Back to the train: we cruised along the Riviera and looked down on waterfront estates with yachts and pools snaking around their propertyt. Essentially, we were looking down on those who normally look down on the rest of us. We even enjoyed a cup of espresso and some fresh bread, sealed in plastic, before our arrival in Nice. If only for the bread and coffee, if you ever have the opportunity to take an overnight train from Italy to France, take it... but don't put your tickets in the front pocket of your pants, just in case you have to run a little.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Posting from Florence

I managed to get some photos up from The Great Barrier Reef and The Sydney Airport. The second one is much more impressive.

I also made a few posts earlier in the week that were not picked up by Feedblitz. I'm not sure why, but check out the earlier posts for videos of cassowaries and Dana.

Off to Nice on a sleeper train tonight! We leave at 23:25 and arrive at 9:45. Ciao for niao.

Roma

On our Big Trip, Rome is our gateway to Europe. We arrived at the airport in the morning and quickly realised that we didn't have a clue where we were, or even how to use a public telephone. After a few failed attempts to reach David at Solaroma B&B, where we were staying, I finally got through. After you put the money in the phone, you have to press "OK". Who knew?

The train to the city from the airport came 25 minutes late. We all know who was responsible for making the trains run on time, so perhaps this is the way Italians apologise. If so, I respect that, but I think all doors should be functioning, no matter what Mussolini did. While we were scrambling into a carriage that had only one door open (the others were broken), I suffered a great loss.

There I was, following Dana with my designated baggage: my backpack, camera bag, a 1L water bottle in each shorts pocket, esky (cooler) full of dirty clothes, and a massive red suitcase. The Leonardo Express, the train that runs from the Da Vinci Airport to the city, requires passengers to pull their luggage up a small, narrow flight of stairs while entering the train. There was a mad rush for the few working doors when the train pulled in, and I stayed close to Dana. She boarded successfully, with her share of the luggage, but as I hoisted our red bag up, I faltered. Time stood still for me and those below me on the platform. For a moment, those passengers joined me in my pain. My right foot was caught under my left leg, and as I struggled to free it, my thong (flip-flop, sandal, sand-shoe, whatever) came off my foot and tumbled down the steps. On the bottom step, it teetered, and a man reached for it just before it completed it's death spin onto the train tracks of Rome. Thanks Benito.

Our B&B was right next to the Vatican! Every morning we could look out our window and see the line of pilgrims waiting to get in grow and the attendant at the gas station within the Vatican grow sleepy. There were a few things I noticed early on during our stay in Rome:
- Everyone eats gelato. Not just the tourists, but middle-aged and old men stand around with a little coloured spoon in their pistachio gelato.
- The streets, stairs and squares are peppered with old women laying face-down on the pavement and praying for money with an empty tuna can or plastic cup in front of them.
- The only way to get cars to stop so you can cross the street is to step in front of them, even at pedestrian crosswalks. Sometimes they still don't stop, but they swerve to go around you, without slowing down.
- Sirens are constantly going off, with police or ambulance seemingly in constant pursuit. The sirens have that odd foreign sound that foreign sirens have. You know what I mean: the sound is actually alarming.

There was a very popular gelateria in the ground floor of our building. No matter what time of day it was, there were queues of people. Inside there were photos of the owners, or gelaterites, with famous Italian celebrities, politicians or folk heroes. I didn't recognise any of them, but I'm sure they would fall into one of those categories. On our last day, we heard one of the many sirens nearing our building. The sound stopped just below our window. We were leaving for the day at that point, so we were able to see what the commotion was... the ambulance drivers were standing around our sidewalk, eating gelato.

Of course, the sights of Rome are astounding. I can't begin to get into the history or describe the impact of the Colosseum or St. Peter's Basilica. Once I get the photos up, I will let them speak for themselves... in the way that only photos can speak... with a kind of gravelly voice and in a cockney accent.

Update: Photos have been posted.

Saturday, June 23, 2007

La Guerra a Firenze (The War in Florence)

Thursday 21 June 2007 22:44
Weary from travel from the mountains of Cortona to the city along the Arno, Firenze, my betrothed and I sink into a deep slumber. Our security is ensured by a trusted donna, our only oversight, a window left cracked to provide some fresh air. The breeze is slight, sweat beads on our motionless bodies.

Friday 22 June 2007 02:03
A noise close to my ear abruptly delivers me from the land of my pleasant dreams to that of my harsh reality. I sit up, my senses sharp. Alert, trying to locate the source of noise, but careful not to awake my partner unless necessary. Too late. She, too, rises, and soon we know our enemy: zanzaras. Scores of them. They have surrounded us. We decide to lay low and hope that they move on.

Friday 22 June 2007 02:18
It is clear that the zanzaras have visited us with bad intent. They have begun their attack. We swat: at our ankles, at our forearms, at our ears. Our attempts at defense are pathetic in the dark of night. A decision is made. We must begin an offensive.

Friday 22 June 2007 02:19
The room is bathed in light, and the zanzaras are given one last chance to escape into the open city. Few chose to flee, and the fate of the rest is sealed with the closing of the latch on the window. For 40 minutes we search an execute. None are spared. Some meet their end with a clap in my hands, their blood - our blood - covers my palms. Other sit on the wall and pray with their probiscus not to be noticed, but none pass my notices, and these are smashed to the wall with a bang. Still others need to be driven out into the open with the wave of our tovaglioli. Stirred from their hiding places, they come to death just as the others.

Friday 22 June 2007 02:59
Our simple room, meant to be a place of refuge, is speckled with the bodies of the dead. Splattered are the walls, the floors, our own selves. We are weary once more. The last of the zanzaras are found and destroyed. These were quicker than the others. Virgin zanzaras, yet to drink of the milk of humans, and so quicker in flight and much harder to secure. At last the war has ended. Once again, we take our places in the base. Sleep overwhelms us once more. But we know that this night, La Notte Delle Zanzare, will be remembered.

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Rest in Tuscany

Dana and I are currently in Tuscany, celebrating with my future mother-in-law on her 60th birthday. We are in a villa just down the hill from Cortona. A few days of relaxing is exactly what we needed after the last week or so.

After we left Palm Cove, we had a long layover in Sydney, and we were not allowed to leave the airport. Sydney International does not have a lot to offer (not even a bar!), so the laptop came in handy. We paced ourselves over the seven hours, making an event of calling home, eating lunch and watching Pan's Labyrinth. As we geared up to find our gate, we could not find our flight on the board. It had been delayed four and a half hours. I managed to get two meal vouchers, which we used at the cafe to buy a bottle of wine. And so we toasted Sydney and said farewell, and eleven and a half hours after we landed in Sydney, we departed.

At 4AM we were in our hotel in Singapore and asleep. The flight lasted 9 hours, but we didn't get much sleep. The next day, we had 24 hours in the city, leaving the following morning at 3AM. Singapore was a load of fun. We spent the day touring by ourselves and met up with Dana's friend for dinner and drinks. The airport welcomed us back, but the flight was delayed an hour. At 4AM we were finally taking off.

Seven and half hours to Dubai from Singapore, a short stop over, then five and a half hours to Rome. This was a bit painful, thanks to chatty kids, chatty adults, and a horrocious airline: Emirates. The food stunk, the movies stunk and the service was terrible. I have regained my love for Qantas. We were so excited for our trip, however, that none of this bothered us once we reached Rome. Somehow we managed to find our B&B and do some touring before crashing at 10PM. Our room in Rome was literally a stone's throw away from the walls of the Vatican, but I didn't have a stone to check.

I have taken over 1000 photos so far, but I am unable to upload them from this site. When I can get them up, you'll be able to enjoy shots of sea turtles, walking fish, statues, sleepy bicycle taxi drivers and even a bizarre Singaporean soda can! Stay tuned... amusing stories will accompany them.

*I did enjoy the Italian version of Blogger.
'Dopo aver fatto clic su "Completato" puoi modificare il tuo post e pubblicare il tuo blog.'

The word "blog" is universal!