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Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

Saturday, November 17, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - It's Over (Links To All Posts)

That's it. The trip has been over for quite some time now. All of the photos have been posted, and some of the stories have been written down here. Below are links to all Big Trip blog entries and photos from the journey. If you're planning a trip to any of these countries, I hope my blog will help you. If you have any questions about accommodation in any of these locations, please leave a comment and I will get back to you. It's just a bit to much to do an entry on all the wonderful and mediocre places we stayed. I will say that our most uncomfortable nights were in 1-star and a 4-star hotels (three nights in the former, one night in the latter) while the 2-star and 3-star joints were fantastic, almost without exception.

That's it for the Big Trip. 98 links below.

Planning
The Big Trip
Singapore Locked In
Queensland Locked In
(Then Dana told me it would be overkill to write before the trip even started.)

Queensland, Australia
We Found Internet Access
Writing in Cape Tribulation
Mt Sorrow
*Cape Tribulation photos
Poolside Extravaganza
The Great Barrier Reef
*Great Barrier Reef photos
Wild Queensland
Found: Previously Unblogged Photos from Queensland
*Queensland photos

Sydney Airport
Aiport photos

Singapore
We Sail Tonight For Singapore
*Singapore photos
Whatever?

Italy
Rest in Tuscany
La Guerra a Firenze (The War in Florence)
Roma
*Rome photos
Posting from Florence
Sleeper
Cortona
*Cortona photos
Siena
*Siena photos
Assisi
*Assisi photos
Montepulciano
*Montepulciano photos
Firenze!!! (Florence.)
*Florence photos
The Villa in Cortona
*Villa photos

France
Nice Post
The Greatest Toilet in the World
Yes, It's Nice
*Nice photos
Monaco & Monte Carlo
*Monaco & Monte Carlo photos
Avignon - Dance!
*Avignon photos
Bridges & Cheese
*Roquefort photos
A Stop in Orange
*Orange photos
Lyon, Lyons, Lions
*Lyons photos
Lyons at Night
*Lyons at Night photos
Lunch in Annecy
*Annecy photos

Switzerland
Greetings from Switzerland
Montreux & Château de Chillon
*Montreux photos
I'm Going to Beat You With a Pig Bladder!
*Interlaken photos

Germany
Getting Slap Happy
German Sing-A-Long
A Week and a Half Left
My Last Night as a 20-Something
My Special Day
Deine Karte Bitte Nehmen!
Bier Hall in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
*Garmisch-Partenkirchen photos
Videos from Gasthof Fraundorfer in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Munich/München
*Munich/München photos
Bamberg, Germany
*Bamberg photos
Stop at the Würzburg Hospital/Winery
*Würzburg photos
Koblenz - Bikes, Castles & Fickle Weather
*Koblenz photos
Saddle Up, Boys, It's Time for Düsseldorf!
*Düsseldorf photos
Farewell Germany, Heading to Belgium!
*Aachen photos

Belgium
Bye Bye Holiday
In Leuven with Jan & Maxine
*Leuven photos
Big Time in Brussels
*Brussels photos
Brussels Grote Markt/Grand Place
*Grote Markt photos
In Bruges/In Brugge
*Brugge photos
Antwerpen
*Antwerpen photos
The Big Trip Ends

Appendices
The Big Trip Ends (OG style)
Big Trip Photos Mapped
Pigeons Rule the World
*Pigeons Ruling the World photos
Faces in Stone (an other matter)
*Faces in Stone photos
The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Friday, November 16, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Food & Drink

Australia
The food in the tropics of Queensland surprised us. This was the one destination where I did not expect to find fantastic meals and drink - and there it was, right in front of me! The dishes we enjoyed in Cape Tribulation were mostly "New Australian" takes on traditional Australian fare, like barramundi. The wine lists were solid, but the beer was lacking outside of Cairns, where we found a better than average hole in the wall at which to avoid returning to our hostel. Similarly, the food we ate at the Great Barrier Reef on the live aboard scuba dive boat operated by Prodive was also wonderful. I did try to tackle the cassowary to taste, but no luck.

Singapore
Singapore was a culinary destination for us, even before reading Calvin Trillin's article "Three Chopsticks" in the most recent food issue of The New Yorker. We quickly learned that plenty of good, inexpensive food can be found in markets, like shopping malls. Dana and I tried everything we could, but we left with dozens of intriguing menu options untasted. Some day we will get back to eat as much as humanly possible.

Italy
I don't usually seek out Italian food and, honestly, I think the cuisine is too heavily relied upon by those nervous to branch out. The freshness and simplicity of the food we ate in Italy was astounding. I could not get enough. I've never eaten so much pasta in my life! Well, since college, at least. We learned a lot of the essentials in Assisi during a cooking class. From our eating experiences in Italy, the two ingredients I will remember most will be the truffles I ate throughout the peninsula and the chicken neck I ate in Florence. Most Italian restaurants won't risk their reputation by serving a bad house wine, so the appropriate liquid accompaniment to these fantastic plates were both tasty and inexpensive... €5 for a liter at one restaurant in Rome. Of course, we had even better wines in Montepulciano.

France
Of course France is known for its culinary delights, and we sought out one of my favorite cheeses, made in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Lyons had plenty to offer, including the famous Le Sud, but our best meal in the country was lunch on our last day, in Annecy. Here we dined on the traditional alpine meal of raclette cheese melted over bread, potatoes and other equally healthy foodstuffs.
"What about the wine?"
Oh yes, the wine was great, but we didn't venture into too many wine regions and did not get to do any tasting. I can say that the French wine was much better than the French beer.

Switzerland
Switzerland offered some very good food, but it was by far the worst value during our trip. The Swiss franc had about the same exchange rate as the Australian dollar, but the costs were much higher. What's more, when we ordered a bottle of wine, it was 500ml instead of the usual 750ml. The travel books and Web sites mentioned Switzerland's secret: fantastic wine that was not exported. The impression was that these wines are SO GOOD that the Swiss don't want to share it with the rest of the world. Well, we tried a few, and they can keep it. The vineyards do make for beautiful scenery.

Germany
These Germans are great eaters and great drinkers! Large portions of flavorful meals served with expectedly good beer or unexpectedly good wine. Sure, I knew they make some great riesling and gewurztraminer, but the range was broader than that. Würzburg surprised us with their winery/hospital. With beer specialties such as altbier and rauchbier, Düsseldorf from and Bamberg, respectively, and impressive bier halls across the land, it's a true beer destination. Dana and I were even a bit overwhelmed early on, and we picked up sushi for lunch in München. Heresy!

Belgium
But we saved the best for last, didn't we? There's not much I can add on the quality of Belgian beer that I have not already posted, but I will reemphasize the quality of the food, in terms of taste, presentation and service. I can think of no other place where people genuinely seem to care so much about your culinary experience. Not because they want to impress you, but because they want you enjoy your meal. Then again, I guess they really have to do that if they're going to serve you horse.

Monday, October 29, 2007

The Big Trip Summary - Getting Around

We made our roundabout way from Sydney to New York on a combinations of planes, trains, boats and cars. Frequent flier miles covered a fair bit of it. Multiple treks between New York & Sydney had its perks!

Queensland, Australia
We flew from Sydney to Cairns on Jetstar. Since it was a domestic flight on a budget airline, the baggage limit was 20kg (44lbs) per person. We had packed our luggage based on international travel, since we were, after all, flying back to New York. We packed those bags to the max, full of clothes to last us for 50 days of traveling in a wide variety of climates, plus the stuff we forgot to ship back to the States. According to Jetstar policy, we were fined for each kilogram extra, which amounted to roughly the cost of two Qantas flights to Singapore. Slight exaggeration, but whatever we saved was canceled out. Oh well. We were still in a daze from our fun-filled farewells, so we hardly noticed the absence of entertainment, food and leg space. When Dana and I were confronted with the huge fine from Jetstar at 6AM the day we were leaving Sydney, still reeling from saying farewell to dozens of great friends, we reminded ourselves that there would likely be many more instances of unexpected charges, and we would have to roll with it. Thankfully, it started and ended with Jetstar.

The car we used in Cairns was obtained on miles from Velocity, accumulated by Dana's numerous Virgin Blue flights to Melbourne. There were not many hidden fees for the Europcar we picked up at the airport in Cairns, and it was a piece of cake. That little white car fared better than I did in the Queensland rain forest.

Sydney
There was a scheduled layover in Sydney during our flight from Cairns to Singapore: 7 hours. But that was OK, because we booked the flight on Qantas with miles. Unfortunately, the flight was delayed 3 hours, and we were not allowed to leave the airport for security reasons. Sydney Airport has shockingly little to do and very few places to eat. Dana and I passed the time watching movies on the iBook and reading. I also squeezed a meal voucher from Qantas, which we used to purchase a salad and a bottle of wine. For about ten hours, we sat in that airport cafe and watched the sun and clouds play above the beautiful city that we were leaving. Blades of Glory was showing on the flight, so that was funny.

Singapore
Qantas was decent, as usual, but we were really looking forward to the flight from Singapore to Rome: Emirates. I had booked the flight through Expedia, and we actually had to pay for it, so we couldn't wait to experience this airline that everyone said was so good. It Sucked. That wasn't a typo, it sucked with a capital S. The seats were tiny, the food was absurdly small, and the mediocre films being shown were worse than they would have been on a Qantas flight. And the flight attendants were rude. Worse than the in-flight experience was the pre-flight experience. Due to our delay on arriving in Singapore, we did not get to our hotel until 2AM. Our Emirates flight was set to depart the following morning at 3AM. The visit was an enjoyable whirlwind, like riding on Space Mountain for 24 hours, but getting back to the airport was like getting back in line for another ride when you really have to vomit. Security screening led us into a tiny waiting room about half the size of the plane. As we sat, drained from the hectic stopover, we were forced to watch Ellen Degeneres dance in a raincoat to a Justin Timberlake song as a bunch of uncoordinated audience members danced along, wearing much cheaper raincoats. Plastic garbage bags, really. The flight was delayed, but they didn't announce that until 4AM, after I had confronted the service desk. We were freed to urinate before being cattle-prodded back into the holding pen.

Dubai
The layover in Dubai was a feast for the senses. We landed at about 6AM local time. A shuttle bus picked us up at the plane and drove us past the airport expansion to our arrival gate. It took about 25 minutes. Someday soon, this will be the biggest and busiest airport in the world... or is it already? It seemed to be, with the massive shopping centers built into this timeless alcove. At 6:45AM Dubai time I was being offered samples of liquor. Instead I bought the most expensive face lotion I have ever purchased. I still have plenty left. I'm savoring it.

Italy
Our first European train experience was in Italy. I understand why they fired Mussolini, but do they keep the trains running poorly just to spite his ghost? I mean, they hung him upside-down and skinned him, isn't that enough? Do they need to make innocent American tourists suffer? Perhaps. Perhaps. Anyway, we were at Rome Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport (Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci di Fiumicino), waiting for the Leonardo Express, for over 20 minutes before it arrived. It arrived empty, so I'm not sure where the delay could have been. Next, only half of the doors opened, and they quickly began closing on the humans boarding. Here's a train that is meant to carry passengers from an airport that only has narrow doorways and steep steps up into the carriage. I lost a thong, or flip-flop, climbing in. Those behind me watched the piece of rubber footwear do a Slinky act down the steps and onto the tracks before continuing their rush on board. That thong meant a lot to me, and I mourn its early separation. It was replaced by a pair of Italian leather sandals in Florence, but I still have the lost shoe's twin. I shall keep it forever.

For us, Italy was all about the train. We had been warned about driving in Italy, and I thought being a pedestrian was enough of a risk. We caught the train from Rome to Cortona, but, of course, we got off at the wrong Cortona stop. Cortona-Camucia, not Cortona-Perugia! Dummy! We hitched rides around Tuscany, noting the frustration in our American family members that each intersection merely tells you which direction to turn for the next intersection. Driving in Italy seemed to be like finding your way through a cornfield maze, at best, like playing QBert at worst.

France
We took a sleeper car from Florenze to Nice, as has been blog-noted. That was a great experience. More details here.

In Nice, we picked up our Peugeot, the car that would take us north to Belgium. A fella on VirtualTourist clued me into their Open Europe plan. It was essentially a leased car, which provided huge savings over car rental. If you are an American citizen and need a car for an extended period of time, check it out. The car didn't give us any problems, but 24 hour roadside assistance was included. The only problem was that they could not grasp the fact that I was not flying to Nice. In countless emails and phone conversations, I stressed that I would be arriving by try and will be traveling for weeks before I get there. For weeks before I got there, their office made frantic attempts to get in touch with me to find out what airline and flight I would be arriving on. Still, everyone I dealt with was helpful and friendly, even if a little deaf.

Now we got to drive! Our first European road trip was to Monaco & Monte Carlo. I still don't get which which one is which, but it was a bit of a let-down. The drive was nice! Speaking of nice, it was tough to find a place to park in Nice. Things got a lot easier once we left the Mediterranean Coast. French people are anal drivers, though. On a three lane highway, with no other vehicles in sight, I was in the middle lane when a car came up behind me in the right lane. He crossed to the middle lane, tailgated for a moment, then flashed me. I moved to the right, he passed me, and moved back into the right lane. I gave a puzzled look that he could not see.

Our biggest road trip was in France, when we drove from Avignon to Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Our decision to take small roads caused us to spend a good ten hours in the car, but the views were amazing. Most of the time we were behind a truck, but left and right were gorgeous.

Elsewhere
Those sticklers for independence in Switzerland charged 30 Swiss francs to drive in their country, but besides that, driving was free. Gas wasn't cheap, but not a lot of tolls. Somehow we made our way around without a map in countries where we could not speak the language. I developed a special skill that enabled me to magically find every hotel without getting lost. When that failed, I would run into the closest hotel and ask for directions to the hotel we were staying at. Those guys love to use the little maps they keep behind the counter.

Driving gave us some freedom to see some of the smaller towns and less-traveled roads. Avoiding the highways in Switzerland enabled us to see far more of the countryside, but probably doubled the travel time. As we made our way north, it was interesting to see the change in crops, such as large expanses of vineyards giving way to hop fields. Sunflowers stood like waiting armies in every country we visited in Europe, seeming only to grow shorter as we climbed up to the Low Countries.

Belgium
Once we dropped off the car in Brussels, and Jan made his way out of the one-way dead-end at the airport, we were back on the trains. A much more relaxing and Earth-friendly way to travel, I would try to take more trains when we get back to Europe.

Back to New York
I've already double blogged this leg of the journey, so I don't have much to add. This British Airways flight was booked through Qantas on miles, so we had a very long layover. The flight itself was pleasant, and would have to take first place in comparison to other airlines of the trip. It was a pleasant and comfortable way to spend a few hours thinking about the incredible trip we had just finished.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Big Trip Photos Mapped

Google offers a free photo-sharing application called Picasa. I don't use it for much, but I created an account and had all the photos I had added to blog posts automatically added to an album. The result was an eclectic mix of images ranging from coneheads and John Howard to rubber duckies and Sam Coates. Pretty neat. But next I dragged some of the photos to a map, dropping them on the city where the photos was taken. Very cool. Now you can roughly follow the path we took from Rome to Brussels. I fear this may expose my secret identity... but it's worth it. Check out the photo map here.

Monday, August 20, 2007

Lunch in Annecy

Our lunch spot during the drive from Lyon, France, to Montreux, Switzerland, was dictated by our stomachs. Thank you, stomachs! We stopped in Annecy, in the north-eastern edge of Rhône-Alpes region. The architecture and cuisine of the city reveals the influences that Geneva had on it over the centuries. Our visit consisted of a hearty lunch and solid hour of wandering. For lunch, I enjoyed raclette while Dana chose a healthier option. I'm not sure how you can get much healthier than raclette, though: a block of cheese is stuck above a heater, then you scrape the melting cheese onto potatoes, bread, onions and gherkins.

Annecy is located on the second largest lake in France, Lake Annecy. The lake, known for being possibly the cleanest lake in Europe, is full of swans and paddle boats. The Thiou canal runs through the city, making it a wonderful spot for photographers. The Palais de l'Isle, built in 1132, is the most striking building in the city. We stumbled upon this beautiful location, and our visit was cut short by rain, but if I were planning the Big Trip now, I would certainly include a night or two in Annecy.

Beautiful Annecy

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Lyon at Night

Dana and I allowed ourselves one fancy-pants meal in each country we visited, and in France, we chose Lyon. On recommendation, we went to Le Sud, Paul Bocuse's restaurant that focuses on the cuisine of the south of France. The establishment was definitely upscale, and the food was very nice, but we did not feel that the service matched the rest of the place, especially the curtains. The curtains were classic eggshell-white, while the service was classic broken egg shells.

For starters, both of our menus were missing a page. This wasn't just the page for starters, but we did notice that other (mostly French) people had thicker menus and that people were eating things we didn't see on our menu. When we asked about it, in strained French, a waiter brought over the missing menu options as if we had asked for a glass of tap water and hurried off. We ordered, and the food was very good, but I have to mention one other thing: everyone else got bread as they were seated, and we didn't. I understand that in some places you have to request bread, but that was not the case here - or at least it was not offered and everyone around us had bread magically appear before them. I wanted to throw a tantrum for bread, but Dana didn't let me.

Throughout our trip, and even prior to it, while living in Australia and the US, we had been told by Americans that the French hate us. Until we reached Belgium, and even considering Le Sud, no other country offered better service than France. The French were courteous, and a guy at a breakfast place in Nice even asked about September 11! But yeah, the service at Le Sud sucked. Our acknowledgment showed in the tip, and recognition of our acknowledgment showed in the faces of the Frenchmen who blew us off for 2 hours.

Our other big Lyon experience was on our last night. Dana and I were in the historic part of town when heavy rain began pouring down. We found a great place to eat, the greatest toilet in the world and then found it quite difficult to find any sort of pub or bar that was still open. Finally we were drawn by the music of an establishment glowing warmly in the rainy night. We quickly realized that it was an American bar! They had Westmalle Tripel on tap, we stayed and soon made a new friend. Raphael joined us until we decided to brave the rain again and head back to the hotel. The McDonald's nearby was closed, but the take-out window was open. People lined up in the rainy street to order food at the Walk-Thru. Service must have been pretty good.

See Lyon at night.

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Lyon, Lyons, Lions

Lyons, France, is the third largest city in the country and the capitol of the Rhône-Alpes region. As became the norm on this trip, we drove into town with the address of the hotel but no map or other clue as to how to get there. This was also where I began to perfect my homing technique. We drove in along the Rhône, and I used my power to get us within a few blocks of where we would be staying the night. I can't explain exactly how I use this power (lest I lose it), but it safely landed us near a train station. Dana stayed with the car while I ran wound the surrounding area until I found our street, backtracked to the car, and returned triumphant with vehicle, luggage and fiance. Often I was applauded in the streets.

The day of our arrival was the first rainy day of the trip, which was perfect, because we desperately needed to do some laundry. As the clothing tumbled, we spoke to family back home and said such foolish things as, "This is the first day of rain we've had!" The rain was very heavy, and marked the beginning of what we have come to call The Soaking Section of the Big Trip. We had a bit of rain nearly every day for the remainder of our travels. This usually drove us indoors, cutting short our photo-taking of statues and increasing the number of stranger-meeting in pubs.

Our stay in Lyon was three nights, so we had plenty of opportunities to see the sights. Our hotel was in the new part of the city, but the historic center was a short walk away. Specifically, we stayed in the 2ème arrondissement, between the Rhône and Saône rivers, near the Perrache Station. It turned out that the station itself may not be too safe at night, but we didn't wander in at any time. The walk towards the old town and Fourvière hill was through Rue Victor Hugo, a wide pedestrian street lines with shops. The shops were closed most of the time we were there, so that was perfect. (Yhe street pictured in the old town, not Rue Victor Hugo)

The funky bridges over the Saône River brought us to the Cathédrale Notre-Dame d'Amiens and the old, narrow streets that surround it. At the main doors the cathedral, we witnessed an interesting altercation when a group of Boy Scouts opened the wrong doors from within the church, waking up a few slumbering homeless people. One bearded homeless man shouted particularly loudly at the Scouts, who appeared much too old to be even Eagle Scouts, put their kerchiefs and walking sticks gave them away. Tourists were unsure how to diffuse the situation, but the homeless man's dog didn't hesitate to join the argument. Perhaps because he, too, was kerchiefed and felt an especially strong responsibility to make it clear to his kerchiefed brethren that future disturbances will not be tolerated.

We hiked up Fourvière for a good view of the city. The top is dominated by the bizarre Basilica Notre-Dame de Fourvière, built in the late 19th century with a combination of a number of styles, such as Byzantine, Gothic & Greek. Near the basilica is the the Tour métallique de Fourvière, a giant mettalic tower built to rival the Eiffel Tower. It doesn't quite cut it. Also up on this hill are the remains of two Roman theaters and Roman baths, built in the 1st century BC. The theaters are used for concerts all summer long. The Roman baths are no longer used.

Lyons? Lyon? I'm not sure which is the correct way to spell it, but it's pronounced like the latter.

Lyon/Lyons

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

A Stop in Orange

Orange is an old Roman town in Vaucluse. We stopped there on the way from Avignon to Lyons. The town was built in the 1st century BC and retains much of its original Roman architecture. Two structures are especially magnificent: the Théâtre Antique d'Orange and the Arc de Triomphe d'Orange. We drove by the triumphal arch, but spent a good deal of time in the old Roman theater. This is the best-preserved Roman theater in Europe and the only one in Europe that still has its massive wall. The entrance fee included an audio guide in the language of our choice. I chose English and found the tour informative; Dana chose Olde English and found the tour challenging.

It was amazing to hear what sort of entertainment used to available to the public on this stage so many centuries ago. It started out with sophisticated comedy, tragedy & drama, but soon soon turned to base humor and cheap shock value before ultimately turning into a deplorable low-brow shlock-fest. Sounds like here's where they laid the groundwork for the modern day sitcom!

Multicolor photos of Orange.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Bridges & Cheese

This was what our day trip from Avignon was all about: Bridges and cheese. The cheese was in between the bridges.

Bridge: Pont du Gard*
An aqueduct built in the 1st century AD by the Romans, the Pont du Gard carried water from Uzès to Nîmes, 31 miles away. How much water? About 5 million gallons a day. The river, Gardon, is serene, as is the parkland on either side of it. At least the slaves building the aqueduct had fresh air and beautiful surroundings.
*OK, this isn't really a bridge, but a pedestrian bridge was built alongside it in 1743 and that still stands too.

Cheese: Roquefort
This was what the day was all about. It was a good 4 hour drive from Avignon, but it sure was scenic! Roquefort-sur-Soulzon is a town on a mountain in Aveyron. We stopped at the even smaller town of Nant for lunch as soon as we realized that lunchtime was coming to an end and we had a long way to go before we reached Cheeseland. Nant was the kind of place you would want to stay if you were looking for an off-the-beaten-path town in the south of France, but you wouldn't know to stay there because no one has ever heard of it. Lunch was very tasty.

Once we made it to our cheese heaven, we did a tour of the famous caves. Famous caves? Oh yes. Here is the legend of Roquefort cheese:
A shepherd (not the same one who built the bridge in Avignon) was enjoying some sheep curd on rye bread when we stopped for a rest in a cave, as you do. He forgot his sandwich on a ledge, but came across it the following year. I guess he was really friggin hungry because he ate it... and it tasted great! Make what you will of the legend, the bottom line is that the cheese is wonderful.

"How do they make said cheese, pray tell?"

I'm glad you asked! They bake loaves of rye bread at high temperatures so that the outside burns and the inside is uncooked. Then they places these loaves in the caves beneath the town. The caves are a constant temperature all year long. Something about the humidity and temperature is magical, and the mold that forms on the bread is really great. They sprinkle the mold into the ewe's curd, pack them into wheels and let time do its thing. Once the cheese is ready, they cut the wheel in half to prevent it from maturing/fermenting any further. The tour we did was completely in French, so I learned all that by lip-reading. There are only seven producers of Roquefort cheese. In order for a cheese to be "Roquefort", it has to be made in the caves below the town and the sheep have to graze within a set region. Picky stinky cheese, I love it!

Bridge: Millau Viaduct
Now THIS is a bridge! The highest bridge in the world... taller than the Eiffel Tower and only 125 feet shorter than the Empire State Building, it opened in 2004. The bridge crosses the valley of the River Tarn. It's a real beauty. Dana and I love crossing bridges, so it was a treat to drive over... if only we had been able to walk over it! We didn't plan on driving over it, but Dana got us dreadfully lost and we had to cross it to save time. Thanks Dana!

Bridges and cheese.

Avignon - Dance!

In the old city of Avignon, the home of the Palace of the Popes, we were told one thing repeatedly, and so I feel I should begin this blog entry with it: ready? are you sure? OK, here we go... in the classic folk song "Sur le pont d'Avignon", they sing about dancing on the bridge, when, in fact, they danced beneath the bridge!

Sur le pont d'Avignon
L'on y danse, l'on y danse
Sur le pont d'Avignon
L'on y danse tous en rond
Les beaux messieurs font comm' ça
Et puis encore comm' ça
So it should have been sous le pont. Haha! Good times.

The Pont d'Avignon (Pont Saint-Bénezet) was a 22-arch bridge crossing the mighty Rhône River. Built in the 12th centure, it was the only fixed Rhône River crossing between Lyon and the Mediterranean Sea. Thanks to this bridge, Avignon became a very important town. The bridge was destroyed by a flood in the 17th century, and only four arches remain. The chapel built into the bridge is still there too.

What's even more interesting is how it was built: a shepherd boy came into town one day and said, "Ye, Avignonians, listen to whast I bespeak! Angels hath bespokenth to me and I've gotta build a friggin bridge!" Of course the townspeople though he was crazy, so the priest (it was a Mass he interrupted with his announcement), leaned down and said, "What sayeth you, shepherd boy? Arst though mad? If what ye say be trueth, picketh upeth that massiveth boulder and layeth the firsteth stone!" With that, the shepherd, Bénezet was his name, picked up the boulder, which was on the floor of the church for some reason, and carried it down to the shores of the river. Then they built a bridge. Maybe some details have been lost over time, but it is an incredible story!

Avignon was also home to the popes for a while. Rome was in political turmoil in the beginning of the 14th century, so they set up shop in Avignon and lived in the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) for about a hundred years. This was also the home of two renegade popes (antipopes) during the Papal Schism at the turn of the coming century. The building is beautiful and the audio tour is very informative. A must stop if you're in Provence.

Photos we took.

Monday, August 13, 2007

Monaco & Monte Carlo

Monaco & Monte Carlo! You've seen them in films! You've read about them! Grace Kelly died there!

So let's leave it at that. Don't bother going, just rent Casino Royale and drink $800 worth of champagne. I was liberated by leasing a car, and Dana was liberated by burning her bra, so we decided to head "20 minutes up the coast" to one of the most famous tax-free locations outside of Wesley Snipe's estate: Monaco. Snipped from Wikipedia, Monaco is "the world's most densely populated country and second-smallest independent nation; with a population of just 32,410 and an area of 1.96 square kilometers." And I think every human there owns two boats. Don't get my wrong... the place is beautiful, but it just doesn't live up to the hype. Perhaps if they installed a ride where You too can drive off a cliff and into the sea! then it would be worth a visit. We found the traffic appalling and everything very expensive. We didn't even buy a panini there.

Just a few more points here... this might be a great stop for someone who has tons of money and doesn't know were to offload it. If you asked me, my first suggestion might be a soup kitchen, but this tax-free constitutional monarchy is a good second choice. I have also never seen so many tourists sitting around. It seemed to me that they were expected to do nothing, once pushed out of their buses, besides look around in awe. Few were talking, so I guess they were pretending that this was more fun than Euro-Disney, but I think this place is in dire need of some good old fashioned streakers. I'm looking into organizing a tour bus full of them now... email me if you are interested. In the meantime, there are some good photos.

Yes, it's Nice.

We arrived in Nice on a sleeper car from Florence, we were very well-rested and in good spirits. We dropped our bags off at our hotel and hurried down to see one of the most famous beaches on the French Riviera. On the way to the Mediterranean Sea, we appreciated the classic architecture of the region, and marveled at the city that was home to such people as F. Scott Fitzgerald, Jean Cocteau, Roman Polanski, Posh Spice and Sinbad. The beach itself was a bit short and rocky, and there were more tourist-traps than I expected... but the water was beautiful and there were plenty of topless women, but it wasn't quite what we expected. I'm sure things have changed since the time when Jacques Tati would visit, but images from films such as To Catch a Thief were always present in my mind. Maybe I should have called ahead to see if the entire main street had been dug up and would be under construction.

Friends of mine have told me that some of the more secluded spots near Nice are truer to the legacy of Nice itself, and someday I would like to get back there to see, but we had to pick up a car in Nice! That's right: a Peugot. There will be more on the car experience later, but we had an interesting first day with it in Nice. Driving in the south of France is madness, so we were happy to hear that our building had two private parking spaces available... we booked in for one of them and received a large keychain and instructions on how to get there. Once we had the car, we drove around the street and down the narrow alley, as indicated on the map. A door about as wide as a desk was ahead of us. We pressed the magic button we were given and the door opened. After flipping in our side-view mirrors, we fit into the elevator on the other side of the open doorway. Another press of the button closed the door behind us and sent the lift down one floor before another door opened. I felt like I was in one of those early PC games. I typed Look Key but that didn't work. The dungeon/parking lot was lightless except for our headlights. I kicked Dana out to search for a light switch or an oilfield to burn, and the room was illuminated... and smoky. The spot for the car was a double spot, and the other car had not pulled close enough to the wall for us to pull in beside him. We spent about 40 minutes trying to park, fuming and saying, "This will be funny someday." How sad we would have been if we knew it would only be slightly amusing one day. When we gave up and I held myself back from letting the air out of the Russo-German's tires, we found a comfortable spot at the train station. Ahhhh.

Nice photos.

Monday, July 02, 2007

The Greatest Toilet in the World

The Beginning





The Sitting





The Experience

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Nice Post

Greetings,

I'm sitting here in the "cafe" area of our hotel here in Nice, France, checking email and updating the blog while listening to the TV behind me that seems to be tuned into a French version of Big Brother...but with a cat, some Unsolved Mysteries and lots of Beck, Gorillaz and Louis Vuitton.

While I attempt to decipher the mess, please take a look at the wicked snaps of Singapore.

More to come on Italy... before we get to Switzerland.

Sleeper

Transportation from Florence, Italy, to Nice, France, was in a sleeper carriage on a train. We arrived at the station, Campo di Maria, with plenty of time to spare, so we popped into the cafe across the road. The train was due to arrive at 23:20 (11:20) and depart 5 minutes later. A quick check on the board at 23:10 set us across the tracks to platform 6. So far everything was going smoothly. I was waiting for EN366 to Ventimiglia to come in, so when CM1233 to Montaciano or Mesopotamia or Montezuma, whatever it was, came in just 2 minutes before our train was due, I was alarmed.

We found another board on platform 6 that said our train had just been moved to platform 5, across the tracks. Now, there are not overpasses or underpasses to cross the tracks, but at one end of the very, very long platform, the ground is leveled off for a safe crossing. As I glanced in that direction, I could see the two lights of an approaching train. We booked it, our wheeled luggage picking up air behind us. We crossed the tracks and continued down to platform 5. I checked my pocket for reassurance...

I should tell you that the tickets we purchased were paper and not replaceable. If lost or stolen, then the loss would be ours. Understanding the risk, I kept them in a very safe place... until we were set to board the train on platform 6. At that point, I transferred them from my backpack, next to my laptop, to my front pocket.

... so I checked my pocket, and I couldn't find the reassurance... or the tickets. I knew immediately that they must have fallen out as we were running to platform 5. I left the bags with Dana, rounded the track crossing, eyeing the approaching lights, and sprinted down platform 6. Luckily the tickets were in plain view in the ground. I nabbed them and turned around. It's the fastest I've ever ran... I felt like Apollo. As the train was a few feet in front of the crossing, I leaped over the rails and onto platform 5. We made the train. The train was a few minutes late. The train that was coming into the station actually went to track 8, so it was behind me as I crossed.

On our Big Trip, we have have overnight excursions on planes and boats, but this was, by far, the most interesting and soothing. Our cabin was understandably snug, but it had its own sink and urinal! At least I think (hope) that was a urinal. We slept in bunk beds, which was perfect for Dana because it made it extremely hard for me to flop my snoring face on her forehead. During the night, however, I somehow I managed to open the curtain repeatedly with my foot, much to the consternation of the lady on the top bunk (Dana). Before nap time we toasted with a really nice eight euro bottle of red. Dana wore half of it, but seeing as how we need to cut back on luggage, this wasn't such a bad thing.

Sleep on the train was wonderful when we were moving. It was silent but for the rumbling over the rails. It gently rocked back and forth, so head to toe we moved. The cabin was cool, but it did get a bit warm during extended stays in some of the towns, such as Genova and Ventimiglia, during which the air-conditioning ceased.

Ventimiglia was also the last name of my Spanish teacher during my first year in high school. On my first day I raised my hand and said that the bookstore had sold out of one of the textbooks, so I didn't have mine. She said she understood, but then told me to sit in the front row, in the middle column, so she could keep an eye on me. She knew immediately that I was "one of those". She was brutal but one of the best teachers I have ever had. If anyone misspelled a word on homework, he had to write the word, in a sentence in Spanish, 100 times. She took a liking to me soon after and didn't even claim to notice that my misspelled punishments were written with five pens taped together (so I only had to write them 20 times).

Apologies for the tangent, but I think it was warranted. Back to the train: we cruised along the Riviera and looked down on waterfront estates with yachts and pools snaking around their propertyt. Essentially, we were looking down on those who normally look down on the rest of us. We even enjoyed a cup of espresso and some fresh bread, sealed in plastic, before our arrival in Nice. If only for the bread and coffee, if you ever have the opportunity to take an overnight train from Italy to France, take it... but don't put your tickets in the front pocket of your pants, just in case you have to run a little.